ETHNIC WEAR OF ANDHRA PRADESH:
Andhra Pradesh is a representation of true soul of India as it is the home of diverse cultures of India. This South Indian state is most famous for its rich handloom sarees but women here can be seen in other dresses too. The prevalence of IT sector in Hyderabad have made the western womens wear like jeans, skirts and shirts, and ladies kurtis also popular in the state. However, the traditional dress of Andhra Pradesh still is the ethnic handloom sarees that are made at different places and are mostly famous by the names of these places.
COSTUES OF WOMEN
Costumes of Andhra Pradesh are Saree and Blouse for women. The women of all communities together with Muslims wear Sarees and blouses. The skill of draping the saree is in itself an expression of a woman`s creativity. Some Muslim women also put on Salwar Kameez Dupatta.
Sarees of the original handlooms of Andhra Pradesh are complete with ethnicity and richness of texture. Dharmavaram in Andhra Pradesh has world wide repute for the production and distribution of gorgeous silk sarees. These Dharmavaram sarees make for ornate costumes, appropriate for bridal wear, ceremonies, like wedding party, or festivals. The hallmark of these splendid sarees is that their borders are generally brocaded with gold plating. The Gadwal sarees, manufactured in Gadwal of Andhra Pradesh, are one of the most exclusive linen, available in the world. What is unique is the saree`s cotton body, with pure silk borders and pallu (the tail-end of the saree).
The Ikkat saree was first woven in the Nalgonda district of Andhra Pradesh. Now its chief production-sites are Puttapaka, Pochampalli and Chautuppal villages of Andhra Pradesh. A proper know-how is indispensable in their creation. It requires a weaving -pattern, wherein the yarn is arbitrarily dyed in zigzag or geometric structures. The last category of sarees and not the least is the Mangalgiri saree, prepared from fine cotton, in Mangalgiri. All these sarees are the most happening costumes of Andhra Pradesh, not only, but in India and other parts of the globe also.
The Kalamkari fabric contains the paintings of mythological figures and events with vegetable colours. Kalamkari sarees, kurti (tops), salwar-kameez, have become the order of the day and have become the popular costumes of Andhra Pradesh. This particular art form is prevalent in Machilipatnam of Andhra Pradesh. Urbanity in its refined form rules in the epicenter of sophistication, Hyderabad. Here it is normal to come across burqha-clad, veiled Muslim woman, working at the same company with today`s cosmopolitan girls, attired in salwar-kameez and jeans-shirts.
COSTUMES OF MEN
Among the Hindus and Christians men usually wear a Dhoti and Kurta. The Muslims in general wear pyjamas instead of dhotis and kurta and the Fez cap, which though is not so common now.
TRIBAL WEAR
Lambadies are a familiar tribal group in Andhra Pradesh and are well-known for their colourful costumes. The Lambada men have taken on the regional dress but the women folk have to this day preserved their gorgeous colourful and heavy garments, with lot of mirrors and beads studded on them. They dress in wide skirts in many gay and loud shades of red, orange and blue.
The magnificent finesse of the costumes of Andhra Pradesh definitely highlights the deft craftsmanship of the different handlooms and textile-industries. Furthermore, pearls have always been a woman`s pride. Therefore, the costumes of Andhra Pradesh cast such an enigmatic spell, that not only the denizens of the state, are spellbound with their aura, but also the tourists who flock there, to appease their appetite for exotic garments and pearl-jewellery.
ETHNIC WEAR OF BIHAR:
Bihar, the land that has inculcated traditional old values to the core, is noted for its hand woven textiles in the field of costume. Particularly, the rustic crowd of Bihar adheres to the traditional pattern of dresses and jewellery. Though most of the population of the state still remains in rural areas the costumes worn by them are still traditional. The clothes for the people of different religions are a bit divergent.
COSTUMES OF MEN
The senior male citizens of Bihar, irrespective of Hindu or Muslim, favour tradition, when it comes to costumes. If a Hindu elderly person prefers Dhoti (an Indian loin cloth), a Muslim person might dress himself in Lungi (a type of petticoat for men) or Pyjama (loose trousers). As an upper garment, men usually go for Kurta (loose, normally cotton, Indian, T-shirts), and shirts.
However, the men resort to attractive apparels for ceremonies, festivals and social gatherings. Kurtas, Churidar, Pyjamas and Sherwani are the ideal costumes, chosen for such special occasions, where accurate attitude owes a lot to an impressive dressing style. The Muslims, Sikhs, and Christian males are habituated in luxuriating in the fragrance of perfumes and "attar" on an every day basis. It is interesting to note that men of Bihar inhabit a penchant for ornaments. They decorate themselves with bala or bali (bangles) in Shahabads, Kanausi in Patna and Gaya. Again Gowalas (the milkmen) flaunt themselves in Kundals (earrings). However, malas or bead necklaces are on the rise these days, than, the other ornaments.
COSTUMES OF WOMEN
The costume of the women folk of Bihar is chosen carefully in keeping with tradition. As per tradition, married women, smear the hair- parting zone with powder of Sindoor or vermillion. Tikli, a forehead-adorning little ornament is added to the hair-partitioning area. On the forehead, a Bihari married woman, be she an urban or a rural one, usually applies bindi. A lot of Bihari women, love applying Kajal i.e. eye-pencil, or antimony eye-make-up called Surma, to improve the appeal of their eyes. They also indulge in flattering their senses with soothing aromatic oils that leave them perfumed, and refreshed, in the mind and body. Tattoo-paintings are broadly prevalent among Bihari women. They give detailed attention to their hands, and beautify them with Mehendi-designs (a kind of tattooing, done with colors fetched from herbal product like, amla or shikakai).
ETHNIC WEAR OF CHANDIGARH:
Chhatisgarh, India`s 26th state, was carved out of Madhya Pradesh on 1st Nov. 2000. Chattisgarh is known for its tribal weaving. Chhattisgarh, formerly known as Southern Kosal.Chhattisgarh is a state with a rich heritage, striking diversity, lush green forests, distinct geographical features and a multitude of ethnic groups. The presence of several ethnic tribal groups adds more hues to the costumes of Chhattisgarh. . Women are fond of `Kachhora` a typical manner of wearing saree. In fact women wearing `Lugda` (saree) and `Polkha` (blouse) with set of attractive ornaments are symbolic of tradition and heritage of Chhattisgarh.
The costumes of Chhattisgarh exhibit colors. Fabrics like linen, silk and cotton are used in the costumes made here. The craftsmen of this state have borrowed various fabric-making techniques from its neighboring and parent state of Madhya Pradesh.
Batik, weaving and tie-dye are the various techniques used in fabric-making. Threads are tied up firmly, dipped in multi-colored dyes and are tied to pieces of cloth to produce various imprints. This technique is known as Bandhani. Fabric is painted with molten wax and is dyed with various colors of cold dyes to produce a design called 'Batik'. Though these cloth-making practices are not widespread in Chhattisgarh, they are practiced to a certain extent in the state.
In the urban areas, trousers and shirts, sarees and salwar suits are worn by the men and the women respectively. The costumes worn here are just like those worn all over India. They have no characteristic features or specialties. Sarees in varieties like Maheshwari silk, Orissa silk, Chanderi silk, Batik print sarees, etc. are worn by the women in the urban areas here.
It is the tribal costumes of Chhattisgarh that endow the costumes of the state with a unique identity and arise interest among the tourists. The tribal men and women wear bright and colourful costumes. Use of a variety of colours in the costumes is the distinct feature of the costumes worn here. Jewelry like neckpieces made of metal casts, silver ghungroos, chunky wooden bangles, etc. is worn widely by the tribal population. Men in tribal groups like Halbas, Ghotuls, Abhuj Marias, Murias, etc. wear dhotis and headgears like cotton turbans, for protection from the harsh sun during the day. The women wear knee-length or full length sarees in bright colours.
A wonderful display of tribal costumes can be witnessed during festivals. Peacock feathers, bright headgears, chunky ornaments made of wood, metal, etc. lend a colourful atmosphere to the air of festivities. Gaudy costumes in striking colours too are features of the tribal festivals. Ornaments made of beads, feathers and cowries are seen amply in these festivals. Ghungroos and beads made of silver and other material make a tinkling sound and add to the already-high spirit of the festivals.
Hence the costumes of Chhattisgarh are the costumes of the rural and tribal groups. They are rich, beautiful and inimitable.
ETHNIC WEAR OF GUJRAT:
Exquisitely stylized and intricately embroidered, the Gujrati attire is simply eye-catching. Dazzling with vibrant colours, flooded with striking mirror work and stunning jewellery it`s one of the most alluring customs in India. The mirror work and embroidery work forms an integral part of Gujrati handicrafts irrespective of the community or ethnic group to which they belong, however the workmanship differs. In fact the various communities can be identified by the pattern of handicrafts and dress or costumes they were. For instance, the Garacia Jat women wear only red or black chunis while Rabari women wear black open blouses or cholis with odhnis to cover head.
COSTUMES OF MEN
Gujarati men usually attire themselves in dhoti, long or short coat and turban cap. At present, however, pants are becoming more fashionable instead of the conventional dhoti. The usual Gujarati dresses of the women also comprise sari and blouse. Parsi males wear pants, long coat and a headgear. The commonest type of dress worn by males in rural areas consists of cotton drawers called `chorno` and a short `kediyu` or `angarakhu` covering the upper part of the body. Most of the people especially agriculturists still continue to put on the typical head dress, thickly folded `phento` or turban. Elderly males of higher classes put on `dhoti` (waistcloth) and `kafani` or `peharan` (shirt).
COSTUME OF WOMEN
The traditional Gujarat dresses for women consist of the lehenga choli or the ghagra choli. These are colorfully embroidered and complemented by bare-backed blouses extending to the waist. Ghagras or lehengas are gathered ankle-length skirts that are fastened at the waist. The entire outfit is completed by a veil cloth called odhni or dupatta which is thrown across the neck or over the head. The lehenga choli, otherwise known as the ghagra choli, helps to add vitality and color to the surrounding landscapes. Tribal women adorn themselves from head to toe with chunky silver jewelry besides the Gujarat dresses that are the norm everywhere in the state.
The garments of the Parsi women are exactly the same as that in which other Hindu ladies dress themselves except for the very pronounced difference that is embodied in the long sleeves of the blouse and a scarf to serve as a cover for the head.
Women in villages put on `chaniyo` the coloured petticoat often embroidered with `abhala` or glass pieces, a similarly embroidered blouse or bodice called as `choli` or `polku` along with `odhani`, a coloured piece of coarse cloth covering the body and the head.
ABHAS - Traditional Costume of Kutch Region
Typical Kutchi costume is incomplete without `Abha` or `Kanjari`. `Abha` is the name of the typical choli worn by women folk and `Kanjari` is a long blouse beautifully embroidered and with mirror work. Most men in Kutch wear loose trousers, a long-sleeved under-jacket, and a short coat, a plain or silk-bordered cloth. Normally men prefer white clothes except the Muslims who prefer colored clothes.
Exquisitely styled and intricately embroidered, Abhas, the traditional costume of the region of Kutch, has entered the world of high fashion. Successfully adapted to modern styles by Anjali Mangaldas, this beautiful garment has become a rage with the fashion conscious women.
In the village of Kutch, the women looked beautiful in their fabulous Abhas as they swayed to the music. The twinkling lights played mischievously over the gold and thread embroidery while the sequins and badla work sparkled continuously. A woman in an abha, the traditional costume of the Khatri, Memon and Korja Muslim communities of Kutch is a sight to behold. This garment from Kutch, a district in Gujarat, has a history that is as colourful and exciting as the garment. In ancient times the women wore the abha embellished with beautiful tie-dye designs, zari thread embroidery that was very minute and intricate embroidery in coloured silk or cotton thread in a combination of a variety of stitches, integrating minuscule mirror discs into its elaborate and distinct pattern.
The word abha-has been derived from aba a word commonly used in the Middle Eastern countries which means a top garment or a mantle. The abha based on an age-old traditional classical cut and style, is basically a kalidar kurta without a slit on the sides, with a lose flair and it hangs lower than a normal kurta. The abha has been a collector’s item since the last four generations. The best have even been part of collections auctioned in the west by Christys and Sothebys Research scholars have not yet been able to pinpoint the historical period or influence on these costumes. Unfortunately modernity has compelled these lovely costumes into museums or wooden boxes in far off villages. The genuine abhas could be date back nearly a century.
Ras and Garba Costumes
The Ras dance is considered to be the form of Ras Leela, which Krishna used to perform when he was leading the life of a cowherd boy at Gokul and vrindavan. The Ras is by itself very simple and is generally performed by a group of youthful people who move in a circle to measured steps, marking time by sticks called dandias keeping in their hands and singing in chorus accompanied by dhol, cymbals, zanz, flute or shehnai.
The typical folk costumes for this dance is a small coat called Keviya with tight sleeves and pleated frills at the waist with embroidered borders and shoulders, tight trousers like chudidars and colorfully embroidered cap or coloured turban and coloured kamarbandha i.e. waistband, which stands direct contrast to the general colour scheme the costume.
COSTUME FOR BRIDE
Ethnicity is the key, when it comes to Gujarati wedding attire for the bride. Traditionally, saree has been the ideal ethnic dress for a bride, draped in a Gujarati style, coupled with traditional jewelry pieces, in a Gujarati wedding. Talking about traditional Gujarati saree, there are two basic types - the Panetar, a white sari with red bandhini border and the Gharchola, traditional red bandhini sari crisscrossed with woven gold squares, enclosing bandhini motifs. Though red is considered as the most auspicious color for the bride, with the changing times, contemporary color and designs have become hot favorite option. Traditional bandhini saris in old rose, jade green, peach etc. with zari borders are making way as the most picked bridal wear. Designer bridal lehangas available in different shades are gaining momentum as well. Stylish and chic looking, these lehangas are luring more and more girls into buying them for the special day of their lives.
COSTUME FOR GROOM
In a traditional Gujarati marriage, grooms opt for dhoti kurta. Cream, fawn and lemon yellow are the most preferred color choice for the groom. To spice up the look, he can also wear a red colored Bandhej dupatta around his neck. However, in the present times, traditional attire is giving way to the modern styled attire. The main effect of this is seen in metropolitan cities, wherein the traditional ethnic clothing has taken a little back stage. More and more men prefer exploring the western wear category. Formal suits have become the ideal choice of the town. As such, for the modern men, the fashion designers are coming up with designer Gujarati wedding bridegroom wear, such as indo western kurta pyjamas, so that traditional and ethnic wears continue to dominate the wedding scene.
ETHNIC WEAR OF HARYANA:
The vibrancy of the people of Haryana finds expression in their lifestyle too. Their simplicity and spirited enthusiasm for life is evident in their way of dressing up. The women of the region have a special attraction towards colours.
COSTUMES OF MEN
It consists of a dhoti, shirt, turban and a pair of shoes. A blanket or chaddar serves as wrapper. The turban has a different style for a Jat, an Ahir, a Rajput, a Bania or a Brahman.
COSTUMES OF WOMEN
There is also difference in the dress of various communities particularly among women. A Jat woman's full dress, thel, consist of ghaggri, shirt and a printed orhni (a length of cloth draped over the front and shoulders) the ghaggri seldom falling below the calves. The Ahir woman can always be recognized by her lehenga or peticoat, angia (a tight blouse) and orhni. Her orhni is broader than that of a Jat women. She employs it also to cover her abdomen. It is usually red or yellow, decorated with bosses and fringes, with a fall. The Rajput woman's dress is similar to that of an Ahir woman. Their orhni may be plain white with silver fringe but without a fall. The dhotis and saris are the favourite items of dress among Brahmans and Aggarwal women.
A woman would need at least three different sets of clothes, one for working at the grindstone, another for the field, another for drawing water from the well. Clothes indicate family status.
WEDDING DRESS
Coloured clothes are worn by the Hindus at weddings. The marriage party colour their duppatas only and the bridegroom his turban. A duppata or overcloth, kamiz or skirt, pajamas, salwar or ghagra with differences in make and colour is generally the female dress. Among the educated classes in the villages women are taking to saris of different colours. The dresses worn by women display more variety than male attires. The dress also proclaims the caste or community of the woman. A Gujjar woman can be known at once from the blue clothes and a Chamar from her red clothes. Round bits of glass are adorned by the clothes of a Gujjar women. Unmarried girls abstain from gaudy dress to avoid undue attention.
ETHNIC WEAR OF JAMMU AND KASHMIR:
The state of Jammu and Kashmir in many respects has problems of isolation, backward and inaccessible areas, and lack of an industrial base and employment opportunities. However, the state is vested with a substantial water resource, mineral base, and is famous the world over for its exquisite handicrafts, handloom products, tourism, horticulture produce and cottage industry. While the state has enormous potential for the flourishing of various industries, it has lagged behind in the field of industrialization. For promoting prosperity and ensuring equitable economic development throughout the state, the state government has been encouraging the flow of investments in areas with high employment potential and helping in utilizing local skills and raw materials to advantage.
The woollen and silken carpets of the state remain unparalleled on the national scene for quality and design. The crewel embroidered pashmina, and embroidered raffal shawls, pattern of Kani shawls, intricate wood carving, production of flora design in paper machie goods, etc., are some of the world famous traditional crafts of the state.
Costumes of Jammu and Kashmir provide an account of the various cultural and ethnic influences in the long history of the region. What makes Jammu and Kashmir`s costumes and attires different from the rest of India is because of the blend of three distinct cultural backgrounds. Filled with greener pastures the dressing in the region of Kashmir becomes more colourful with exquisite embroidered work that accompanies their clothes, especially the shawls and Pherans, which are embroidered with intricate patterns of multihued threadwork. Up above in Ladakh , the dressing sense is having a trans-Himalayan influence in it. One can check the true colours of this barren cold desert in the festive seasons when the ceremonial attires just astound the spectators. Kashmiri Muslims used to wear the pheran, a long loose gown hanging down below the knees, a white turban tied on a skull cap, a close-fitting shalwar and lace less shoes called gurgabi. A white piece of material is hung on their shoulders like a stole. Hindu men wear churidar pyjama instead of shalwar. The less affluent Muslims wear skull caps, which looks cute and does not carry any shawl.
The Pashmina and the Shahtush shawls are the most popular apparels of the state of Jammu and Kashmir. The Pashminas bear the Kasida design that is unique to the state of Jammu and Kashmir. Threaded designs and motifs are stitched on both sides of the shawl maintaining uniformity in the design.
COSTUME OF KASHMIRI MEN
The pheran is the most commonly worn garment among men. Hindu men usually wear churidars while the Muslim men are dressed in salwars beneath the formidable pherans. The pheran is a loosely fitted woollen garment which makes use of the `kangri`. The kangri is an earthen vessel which is filled with flaming coal. It is then placed within a container made of natural fibre. The kangri is usually placed in the front, skillfully shrouded by the pheran. It functions as an internal heating system in order to keep the wearer warm during the extreme cold winters.
The `pathani` suit, also referred to as `Khan-dress`, is a popular garb among the men, especially in Srinagar. Turbans are common among Muslim men. Skull caps are extremely prevalent, especially among the peasants and the `karakuli` or fur skull caps along with the Pashmina shawls worn by men often symbolize royal lineage. The Pashmina shawls are made from traditional woollen textiles which are obtained from mountain goat. Intricate work is done on both sides of these shawls. The special Kashmiri embroidery work, Kasida, is done in such a manner that the patterns appear in a uniform manner on both sides of the fabric. The Pashmina belts and `kamarbands" are common too. The Muslim men wear lace-free shoes known as Gurgabis. Brocade, camel hair and cashmere are the main elements that are used in the making of coats and fleece for men.
COSTUMES OF KASHMIRI WOMEN
Kashmiri women are among the most beautiful in India. They have "an English rosiness of complexion behind the Eastern tan". The colour of their hair ranges from golden red to brunette and that of eyes from green, blue, grey to black. Besides being boats-women and farmers, the women of Kashmir lend a hand to their men-folk at shawl making, embroidery and other handicrafts.
The pheran is the prominent attire for Kashmiri women as well. Traditionally, there are the `poots` and the pheran, comprising two robes placed atop the other. The pheran worn by women usually has zari embroidery on the hem line, around pockets and mostly on the collar area. The pherans worn by the Muslim women are traditionally characterized by their broad sleeves and reach up to the knees. However, the Hindus of Jammu and Kashmir wear their pherans long, stretching up to their feet with narrowed down sleeves. Often, the pherans are wrapped tightly by a piece of creased cloth called `lhungi`. The Hindu women wear a headdress called the `taranga`, stitched to a suspended cap and it narrows down at the back, towards the heels. The taranga is an integral part of the wedding attire among Hindus.
Elaborate zari embroideries or floral patterns around the neck and the pockets are a prominent feature of a Muslim woman`s pheran. Brocade patterns adorn their long sleeves.
The pheran is accompanied by red headgears known as the `kasaba`. The kasaba is stitched in the form of a turban and is pinned together by ornaments and silver brooches. A pin-scarf suspended from the kasaba descends towards the shoulder. It is worn by the Muslim women as a part of their regular attire. The `abaya` is also commonly worn by them. For unmarried Muslim women, the costumes vary to some extent. The elaborate headgears are replaced by exquisitely ornate skull caps embellished with threads of gold, talismans and gems.
Costumes worn by ethnic groups of Kashmir
The Jammu and Kashmir landscape is dotted with various ethnic groups.
DOGRA
Dogra are tribes residing amidst the hilly topography of Jammu. The Dogra Women wear long, loose tunics, close-fitting chudidars and dupatta or cap to complete their charming ensemble.Similar fitted pajamas and kurtas of considerable length constitute the costume of the Dogra men. The use of kamarbands and turban are prominent among the Dogra elders.
GUJJARS
The Gujjars, also residents of Jammu, are the second-largest group of ethnic tribes inhabiting in Kashmir. The members of this tribe are mostly shepherds. The Gujjar women are dressed in loose sleeved tunics coupled with baggy salwars. They cover their head by an elaborate headgear, akin to the ones worn by the women in Turkish villages.
LADHAKIS
Ladkh is a part of the state Jammu and Kashmir.Ladakh is known as the `land of the Lamas` and the Buddhist of Ladakh prefer to call their religion Lamaism - which is much the same as Mahayana (or Great vehicle) form of Buddhism.Ladakhi men wear long, grey, woolen gowns fringed with sheep-skin and tied at the waist with girdles of blue colour, multi-coloured velvet caps, fringed with black fur earlaps. Their women wear colourful clothes. Their special turquoise-studded headgear called Perak, is made of red cloth or goat skin and hangs up to the forehead and tapers down to the waist at the back. Brooches of turquoise and other semi-precious stones embellish their headgear, bangles and ear ornaments.
DRESS FOR LADHAKHIS WOMEN
The women wear a similar robe called a "Kuntop" but on their backs they add a colourful shawl, the "Bok" - in which a baby or parcels can easily be carried.
DRESS FOR LADHAKHIS MEN
The men wear `Goucha`, a woollen robe made of sheep skin fixed at the neck. It is wound at the waist by a bright sash called `Skerag`. It extends to about 2 metres in length and 20 cm in breadth. The Skerag serves as an enclosure for the Ladakhi men to carry their bare essentials. Men in Ladakh wear velvet multihued caps while the women adorn turquoise colored hats named `Perak`. According to tradition, upon a woman`s demise, the perak is handed down to her eldest child. In Ladakh, footwear made of Yakskin and wool is known as `Papu`.
It has been seen that over the years, the people of Jammu and Kashmir have adopted the dressing style and habits of the west as well as those of other regional Indian cultures. This is noticed primarily among the men have appropriated the western attire to a great extent. The sari is more popular among the Hindu women after the 1930s Reform Movement. However, despite these influences, the traditional pheran continues to remain the symbol of the culture and couture of Jammu and Kashmir.
ETHNIC WEAR OF KARNATAKA:
Karnataka dresses share the distinctiveness and elegance of South Indian clothing. The dresses of Karnataka bespeak grace, convenience and decency which are integral to the cultural ethos of the state. Costumes of Karnataka consist of regal silk sarees, which happen to be the traditional costumes of this place. Karnataka is the silk hub of the country. Karnataka silk has a wide spectrum. It has abundant variety, namely, smooth silks, sleek chiffons, and gorgeous brocades. These saris not only decorate women in the state, but also establish its sway in other parts of the country and in foreign nations. Indeed, Bengaluru and Mysore are the epicenters of silk-industries in South India. The marvelous shine, the super quality thread and the interweaving of gold threads in exclusive creations, attribute to the profound popularity of the sari as the favorite costume.
COSTUMES OF MEN
Men drape a piece of cloth known as an angavastram around their shoulders and also wear a wraparound skirt called a lungi. The garments are made of a light material and generally dyed in neutral earth tones for casual wear.When it comes to considering the office costume of Karnataka men, they wear formal shirts, or T-shirts or trousers, without having the privilege of many options. However, on special occasions, men might dress themselves in ornate versions of their traditional costume, the Panche, which is Dhoti-like apparel. In recent times, only the rustic men of Karnataka stick to Panche, as their everyday costume. Mysore Peta is the traditional headdress for Karnataka.
COSTUMES OF WOMENS
Sarees have been the traditional dress for women in Karnataka. Traditionally, the saree is worn in the characteristic nivi style of southern India with pleats in the front and sometime passed on to the rear to facilitate movement.
The Kanjeevaram or Kanchipurram silks, of Kanchipuram in Karnataka, dazzle the eye with the rich texture, mind-blowing colours, and fabulous designs. The Kanchipuram Silk Saree is a hand-woven creation. The silk yarn is dyed to bring the desired colour and afterwards Jari is interleaved into the yarn. Pure Jari is a silk thread, intertwined with a thin silver wire and then gilded with pure gold. The Jari adds the element of shimmer in the yarn. The technique of Kanchipuram-making calls for Sarees the conjunction of three threads to concertedly make the silk thread used for weaving. This gives the sari a durable quality. Hence, the outstanding Kanchipuram sarees usually turn out to be the bridal costume of Karnataka.
Among the other popular items, Mysore silk, deserve mention. The magnificent mantle, the lustrous zari and the rich silk, make the saree assume an enchanting look. These sarees are less expensive than the queen of silks, Kanchipuram silks. Therefore, its reasonable costs make it more affordable for the ordinary people and, still give them the elegance, they are searching for. Arani Silks, Valkalams, Kora Silks, Patola Sarees, exclusive Designer Mysore Silk Sarees, Crepe Silk Sarees, Chiffon Sarees, and Raw Silk saris can satisfy the aesthetically aware population of Karnataka. Sarees with this impressive variety is thus the traditional costume of Karnataka. The Kornadu sarees are fascinating in their fusion-display of cotton and silk. The saris are woven in a blue cotton yarn together with a silk yarn in other multiple shades. The motifs in the sarees are varied and the body of the sari either bestowed with checks or stripes. These sarees are used as daily comfort wears.
The Mysore crepe silk, is apt as costume for office or workplace, more because of its light-weight, and easier maintenance. It is supple opaque crepe silk complemented with Jari margins. These saris are dyed in spectacular colours after the completion of the weaving. The Ilkal and the Mokalmuru sarees stand as the ethnic motif of Karnataka. It is used for regular wear and tear and also as traditional costume, by a fashion-conscious Karnataka lady. Karnataka presents before the world its harmonisation of modernity and tradition. When Bangalore reigns as the Silicon Valley of India, it is evident that women and men will also adhere to the formal office wear, suitable for working environs. Today`s girls might wear Mysore crepe salwars, or Karnataka handloom`s cotton salwar or saree, or even Western jeans and trousers, while going to office.
KODAVA
The Coorgi style follows the usual manners of Karnataka's dresses but with slight variations. Members of the Coorg community of the Kodavu district have their individual and slightly distinct style of wearing the saree. Here the pleats are created on the back allowing free movement of the legs. The remaining part of the saree is then brought over the right shoulder and pinned. While men don a wraparound robe called a kupya. Kodavas are famous for their elaborate attire, and men wear a long black coat, scarlet sash and gilded turban on special occasions.
DANCE COSTUME
Yakshagana is a traditional dance of Karnataka where the dancers wear colourful costumes. The traditional costume for this dance comprises of dhoti, a pyjama, a jacket and a loose gown. Most of the costumes of the dancers who perform the traditional ritualistic dances of Karnataka, are eye catching, colourful and bright.
ETHNIC WEAR OF MAHARASHTRA:
Maharashtra, one of the largest and most populous states of India, demonstrates an array of costumes, suiting the purpose of any occasion, as well as weather conditions. It can be said that costumes of Maharashtra truly reflect the identity of a typical Maharashtrian culture. A nine yard sari is a traditional costume of its women, and dhoti and shirt is the traditional costume of its men folk. Maharashtra has a vast textile history, which has contributed to its rich variety of costumes. Pune, Paithan and Kolhapur are some of the ideal places to shop for typical Maharashtrian clothing.
WOMEN’S COSTUME The traditional costume of women in Maharashtra is a nine-yard long saree, called Nauvari. This saree bears a resemblance to male trousers. This specific style of draping does not require a petticoat or a slip beneath it. The Nauvari saree has a historical background. During the Maratha rule, women were entrusted with the grave responsibility of helping their male partners, at emergency period of wars. To facilitate easy movement, the Maharashtrian women then introduced the Nauvari Saree.
The fabric of Nauvari Saree is usually cotton, and for special occasions, silk tops the priority list. Paithani sarees happen to be the treasured creation of Maharashtra`s textile-industry. The Paithani saree, invested with an 18 inch to 25 inch pallu, owes its origin to adept The Brahmin ladies of Maharashtra wear sarees in a particular pattern where the pleats are located at or near the back and these are tucked in waist and the decked part of the saree is left open on the shoulder part. They use choli with the sarees and often polkas and blouses. The Maharashtrian women prefer to deck themselves in beautiful jewelleries. Most of the designs of the jewelleries are of Peshwa and Maratha style. Among the most favoured jewelleries are the haar, nath or nose ring decorated with pearl or vibrant coloured stones. Some of the necklaces they wear include bangdya, Kolhapuri Saaj, tode and patlya.
Silk is woven to constitute the body of the royal Paithani silks. And into this rich silk texture, pure Jari-made of gold and silver threads, are interwoven, to give the Saree the ornamented get-up. The bright Paithani sarees are very popular as the bridal costume in Maharashtra. The Paithani sarees are thus essentially linked to the culture and society of Maharashtra. The sarees have received their name after the place of its origin, Paithan in Maharashtra. The other weaving-sites of this exclusive item are Yeola, Pune, Nasik and Malegaon in Maharashtra.
MEN’S COSTUME The men of Maharashtra uphold Dhoti as their cultural heritage. It may be worn along with a shirt or kurta, and Dhoti is often substituted with trousers. They also wear `bandi` over the shirt and turban called `pheta` and `pagadi`. The festive occasions of the Maharashtrians allow themselves to indulge in the festive mood and during this time most of the men wear Churidar, Pyjama, Ackan or Survar.
The Maratha Brahmans are very particular about the securing of their dhoti, which always had to have five tucks, three into the waistband at the two sides and in front, while the loose end is tucked in front and behind. Once Nagpur hand-made dhotis were famous for their durability.
In the urban areas of Maharashtra, and especially in its cosmopolitan capital, Mumbai, costumes display themselves in their variety best. Women put in Kurta-Pajamas, salwar-kameez, skirt-blouse, and jeans-trousers, exotic Sarees and so on. The urban Mumbai men on the other hand, flaunt themselves with the halo of grooming. They shift from wearing jeans, trousers, branded shirts, baggy trousers, T-shirts, all possible types of casual wears. On occasions, sherwanis, kurta-pajamas, ornate Dhotis, and other kinds of resplendent men`s attire, rank among their favorites. Indeed, Mumbai the glam-epicenter of India, and the abode of Bollywood, is the trendsetter for costumes, for the whole of India. Fashion experiences its high, in the posh cities of Maharashtra, with fashion-designing institutes and business units, establishing their sway.
The state of Maharashtra, hence has achieved a splendid synthesis of the old and the new patterns in costume. Time and the effect of globalisation have brought a drastic change in the costumes of each and every state and Maharashtra as well. Though the modernisation has a great impact in the society, the tradition has not faded its glitter, thus the traditional dresses have not lost the glory of their past. It has also focused on the traditional and regional textile-accomplishments like Paithani as the `in-thing` now.
ETHNIC WEAR OF ORISSA:
Orissa is the only state that showcases India’s wealth in its splendid temples, shrines, glistening golden beaches and crowing architecture, sculptures and other diverse arts and crafts. Orissa, India is known for its ethnic and traditional handcrafted items, be it clothes, rugs or decorative items. The Tourism industry gets a major boost because of these art forms as people come from far and wide to simply watch these amazingly skillful artisans at work while they create these handcrafted items. If one plans to visit any hilly area in Orissa, then good woolen clothing is recommended in winters.
The village folk wear the traditional dress of dhoti and kurta and the women folk sarees. The working people put on shoulder a small piece of cloth called gamuchha, which is used for wiping one's body or tying it around the head as turban when necessary. Lungi is becoming popular with the younger people, but is used only as an informal dress. Boys wear shorts and shirts and girls, vests and frocks. The youth and the urban elites have mostly taken to the European sartorial fashion; shalwar and kameej has become a fashion with most urbanite girls. Simplicity is the criterion of dress and ornaments today. The old fashioned ornaments, which had their classic forms of beauty, have been discarded throughout by the women folk at the various levels of society. Sleek ornaments are very much in fashion now-a-days.
ODISSI DANCE COSTUME
Odissi is the traditional dance of Orissa. The costume is similar to that of traditional Bharathanatyam costume. Light cottons in summer and light woolens in winter.. Odissi dance attire like other Indian Classical dance has a stitched costume (pyjama style) made out of the special Orissa handloom sarees. The sarees have their special borders and intricate designs that sets them apart from other sarees. Earlier, there were no stitched costumes but only the sarees used to be draped around. But over a period of time, the stitched costume has been used more frequently because of its convenience.
Orissa is recognized in India for its handlooms, especially the Orissa saris (six yard material draped around as clothing for Indian women). The saris usually have bright eye-catching color combinations, such as the ones you see displayed in the titles, banners and borders above, and different patterns, animals, etc repeated over the length of the saris. The state is also known for the intricate silver filigree jewellery. In Odissi dance, both the sari and jewellery are showcased in the attire.
Originally, the Orissa saris were draped around the dancers in a specific manner for the costume. However, due to time constraints and for greater ease and neatness, costumes are now stitched in that specific manner, so that the dancers could easily change into different costumes during a program. In Orissa there are many different designs and motifs woven in cotton and silk to create the distinctive saris of Orissa - Bomkai, Teliarumaal, Sambalpuri which are cherished by women in India.
TRIBAL COSTUMES
Each tribal community has separate mode of living and they differ significantly in their dress, ornaments, skill in building houses, and moreover in their way of life. This difference in their life is clearly discernible from their material culture, art objects from the paintings and drawings and also from the size and shapes of different objects that they use. To the tribal, dress is a cultural need and it is also a part of their tradition.
Among the tribals the use of dress is very significant and worthwhile. The tribals do not use dress just merely to hide their nakedness rather it reflects the racial feeling and their cultural identity. The tribals use separate costumes at the time of festivals and ceremonies. In a specific tribe the dresses from birth to old age has immense variety. The costumes of the male members of the tribe and the females are also different. It is a fact that the female community pays more attention in covering their body. In some tribal communities the women folk want their male partners to be dressed elegantly and impressively. A tribal woman also wears a variety of dresses from her birth to death corresponding to different stages of her life. For instance, a Dhangedi(a maiden) adorns with fine clothes to attract the attention of others while the Gurumai, the priestess wears formal clothes to worship the goddess for the betterment of her community. Dress also helps them in many adversities and also helps to propitiate gods and goddesses who safeguard them against the malevolent atrocities of the ghosts, spirits, etc.
The tribals also use dress according to the position of individual in the society like the clan's head, the priest, and the revenue collector etc. The dress that they use at the time of marriage, birth, death, worship etc. is also different. They use dresses keeping in view the occasion, age, sex and other factors. For example, the priest does not use the normal dress at the time of worship. And again at the time of dancing they dress in a very attractive manner. And the dancing costume has also special significance. They also wear dresses in different styles. While dressing they also keep in their mind the surroundings. They also think of their convenience and inconvenience while dressing themselves for an occasion. Especially they do not like to dress very pompously at the time of any work. But when they go for shopping to the near by market place or to visit any fair or festival they dress themselves quite exuberantly and exquisitely.
Different tribal communities use different kind of dresses, differing in their color and size. Their dresses are designed keeping in view their necessity and their surrounding. The socio-cultural and the religious views of the tribals slightly contribute for the variety in their dresses.
The tribal costumes are very simple and it provides immense comfort to the wearer. Generally, in the Kandha community the Dongria Kandha, the Kutia Kandha and the Desia Kandha, Lanjia Saora and the Santhals depend on other communities (non-tribal artisans) for their clothes. Lanjia Saora and some other tribal community make threads by themselves and give it to the Damas to weave for them. And again they purchase that cloth from the Damas by cash or kind. While the Bondo and the Didayi, the Gadabas weave their own clothes though the Dangrias purchase the cloth from the neighbouring Damas. They knit fine needle work on it and use it.
ETHNIC WEAR OF PUNJAB:
Costumes of Punjab are indicative of the bright and vibrant culture and lifestyle of the people. The costumes are a mix of colour, comfort and beauty. It may be noted here that the state of Punjab is well known for the use of phulkari in its costumes. It is a kind of flower work embroidery done most often on shawls. These shawls are worn over a tight-fitting choli and ghagra. Phulkari forms the traditional costume of rural women of this region. In earlier days, Phulkaris were made for everyday wear. Usually the border and field of the shawl were not so densely embroidered, with much of the ground cloth exposed. For ceremonial purposes, a special kind of phulkari known as "bagh" (garden) was made in which the whole of the ground was covered with embroidery, so that the base cloth was not visible at all.
In Punjab, there was a particular community oftextile workers called “Chhimba”. They used to print khaddar cloth with hand blocks. In most cases, the white cloth was supplied by the customer. It was first dyed and then printed by the Chhimbas. The printed designs were mainly floral and geometrical, sometimes bird and animal motifs were also used.
COSTUMES OF WOMEN
A popular, comfortable and convenient dress worn by the women of Punjab is the churidar kurta. This was traditionally the dress worn in Punjab, but is now worn almost everywhere, particularly among the younger generations. Punjabi girls and women also wear salwar kameez`s with bright colored duppattas. A salwar kameez has two pieces of clothes- the kameez, or shirt or top piece; and the salwar, (pants) or bottom piece. A duppatta is a piece of colorful cloth that women wear around their necks. Salwar kameez`s and duppattas come in a variety of colors and designs. Punjabi girls and women wear salwar kameez`s with bright colored duppattas. The women can also be seen wearing shawls adorned with the beautiful phulkari shawls. The shawl is completely covered in thick silk embroidery and folk motifs done in jewel-tones on an ochre background.
COSTUMES OF MEN
The traditional costume of the men of Punjab comprises a kurta pyjama. The kurta is a kind of loose shirt which is long and straight-cut. The pyjamas are loose, baggy pants which are tied at the waist. Some men also wear the kurta with the loongi or tehmat, which is a kind of sarong. During winters they can be seen wearing bright colourful sweaters. Some of the boys and even the brown up men can be seen wearing loose pants or slacks with a collared shirt or t-shirt. The Sikhs among the Punjabis can be distinctly identified by their attire as they are obliged by religion to wear turbans known as `puggs`. Traditional Punjabi shoes, called juttis are extremely popular with men in both the rural and urban areas. They are extremely comfortable and also look very elegant.
The modern urban Punjabi men have also adopted the western style of dressing and are equally at ease in a pair of jeans and t-shirt as they are in the loongi and kurta. For the purposes of formal wear, Punjabi men can be seen wearing shirts and trousers.
Thus the costumes of Punjab can be best seen in all their beauty and resplendent colours in the state of Punjab, especially in the rural areas. The traditional Punjabi shoes, called juttis retain their popularity with both rural and urban men; they are both elegant and comfortable. Patiala and Muktsar are famous for juttis. It is impossible to tell by dress whether a Punjabi woman is a Hindu, Muslim, Sikh or Christian - they all dress in salwar topped by a kameez (a garment that can be fitted like a dress loose like the kurta) and accented by a rectangular scarf about 2.5 metres long called the chunni or duppatta . She`s fond of her sweaters, but she is passionately proud of her collection of woollen shawls. These can be breathtaking. The women of Punjab are responsible for the state`s most famous item of handicraft - the phulkari.
Traditional Bhangra Dress (for Men)
Dress for Bhangra is as colourful and vibrant as the Bhangra dance itself. Bhangra costumes effectively portrays the rich and vivid colors of rural Punjab and also the zest for life of Punjabi folk. Bhangra costume is simple and is normally worn by the men in rural Punjab, in lighter hues though ! Before we study how the Bhangra costume looks like let us see what exactly constitutes the traditional Bhangra dress for men.
Parts of Bhangra Dress
ETHNIC WEAR OF SIKKIM:
Sikkim, located below Mount Khangchendzonga in the Himalayan ranges is a north-eastern state of India. The people consist of three main ethnic groups – the Lepchas, the Nepalese and the Bhutias. The Lepchas are said to be the original inhabitants of Sikkim. The Nepalese started to settle down in Sikkim from the 19th century and now they are more than 60% in population. Nepali, i.e. the Nepalese people , another predominant group of Sikkim, has sustained the ethnicity of their own culture in their costume. However, in the cities and urbanised sectors of the state, Marwaris, Biharis, Bengalis, South Indians and Punjabis, have settled to conduct business and serve in government services. Costumes of Sikkim, reflects in the resplendence of the dress and ornaments of the people, their love for beauty and inventive finesse.
COSTUMES OF WOMEN
LEPCHA WOMENS
The hereditary costume of Lepcha women is Dumvum or Dumdyam, a kind of smooth and cosy ankle-long dress, draped like a saree, Tago a loose-fitting comfortable blouse, and the head is covered by a scarf called gorey. The magnificent ornaments exhibited by the Lepcha women, entail, earrings, called Namchok, Lyak a necklace, Gyar, a bracelet, and so on.
BHUTIA WOMENS
A Bhutia woman`s general costume consists of Kho or Bakhu, Hanju, a silky full-sleeve loose blouse, Kushen, a jacket, a different pattern of the cap, Shambo and Shabchu, the shoe. Pangden, the stripy apron, the signifier of marital status is a symbol of married Bhutia females. The ornaments enhancing the appearance of the Bhutia women are Yencho, the earring, Khao, the necklace, Phiru, the pearl ornament, Diu, the Gold bangle, and Joko, the ring. Bhutia people are obsessed with the pure form of gold, i.e., 24 carats, and have most of their ornaments crafted from pure gold.
NEPALESE WOMEN
The traditional costume of the Nepali women of Sikkim is endowed with fabulous hues. Pharia, the saree, gorgeous in vibrant shades, definitely augments the grace of the Nepali women. The dressing gets the right finish with a long loose blouse, is fastened from four sides and hence is called Chaubandi Cholo. Another variety in blouse is the Tharo Cholo. The upper portion of the body is daintily enveloped with a piece of cloth with wonderful prints. It is called Hembari.
The dance costume of the Nepali women is amazing. Pachauri, a colourful piece of cloth, suspended from the head to the waist, is utilised as adornment during dance performances. The ornaments that give a gaudy appearance to the Nepalese women are Sir-Bandi or tiara, i.e., a jeweled head-ornament, Kantha, a necklace, Naugeri, a pearl-necklace, Charanihari, again a necklace, Tilhari, a green bead with an elongated gold pendant, attired mainly by married women, Bulaki, a nose-ring, Dungri, a nose-pin, Tik-mala, Chandrahar, Chepti son, an ear ring, Gadwari, an earring, a silver Chura, a bracelet, and Kalli, a thick, substantial, silver anklet.
COSTUMES OF MEN
LEPCHA MEN
The traditional costume of the Lepcha male is Thokro-Dum ( (a cotton sheet of multicoloured stripes) which involves a white pajama, stretching only to the calves, a white shirt known as togo and a pair of loose cotton pyjamas known as gyodo. Chambu-thuri a woolen cap is sometimes used. The texture of the male dress is rough, and long-lasting, suitable for the hardy toil in the field and forest.
BHUTIAS MEN
The traditional costume of Bhutia males comprises Kho, also known as Bakhu. It is a loose mantle which is tied at the neck on one side, and at the waist region with a silk or cotton belt. Added to this basic garment, a Bhutia man dons Jya Jya, a waist coat, the shirt, called, Yenthatse, shirt, Kera, a cloth-belt and Shambo or thurishambu, the cap and a pair of leather shoes, shotsi complete the dress of a Bhutia men.
NAPLEASE MEN
The Nepalese men dress themselves in Shurval, a Churidar Pajama, topped off by a shirt, known as Daura. It is associated with Aaskot, wrist coat and their belt, called Patuki and a cap with slanting top known as dhaka-topi.
OTHER GROUP WOMEN
The other Marwari, Bihari, Bengali or Punjabi communities cater to their traditional costumes of salwar-kameez dupatta, saree, woolen textiles, and even to Western outfit, like jeans, T-shirts, trousers, anything which suits their taste and preferences.
ETHNIC WEAR OF TRIPURA:
Tripura, the frontier hilly state of the North-East, is the land of skilled weavers, gifted with proper know-how .The women of the local tribes, such as the Khakloo, the Halam, the Lushei and the Kuki-Chin tribe , excel in the art of weaving, as is attested in the diligent traditional costumes, which they diligently preserve.
There is a striking resemblance in the traditional costume of the Khakloo and the other fellow tribes. The plain dressing style is apt for the hilly climate, and for regular work. The infants are hardly given clothes except when it becomes essential in the winter and rainy season. The children put on a loincloth.
COSTUMES OF MEN
The daily work-costume of a full-grown male is a towel-like sheet of loin cloth, called Rikutu Gamcha , topped off by a self-woven shirt, called Kubai. To combat the blazing heat of the sun and to continue working in the open heat, the men resort to a pagri , i.e., a turban. Western influence is prominently visible on the young boys of today`s Manipur, because they prefer wearing shirts and pants.
COSTUMES OF WOMEN
The Khakloo, and at large the Tripuri women, envelop themselves in a greater size of cloth-piece , known as Rignai. This long as well as broad cloth is draped around the waist and reaches the knee. She dons herself in a shorter piece of cloth called Risa. This upper-attire passes under the arms, and conceals the entire chest-region of the body. Risas are often invested with beautiful embroideries.
Now-a-days, the younger generation of girls prioritize blouses over Risa, as being more management-friendly. However, still among few clans, the wearing of Risa during wedding is mandatory. Women folk also are found to use some kind of headdresses while at work outside.
The neck areas of women are adorned with plethora of beads and coin strands. The element of finery is dim in the costume of the women of the Lushei tribe. Every woman wear a dark blue cotton fabric , to serve as a skirt or petticoat. This cloth, wrapped around the waist, is held firmly by a corset of brass wire or string. The Rinai-like cloth, which falls down to the knees, is associated with an upper-attire; a short white jacket and a cloth to invest in their appearance the sobriety.
In the mirthful times of revelry, the female costume, gets an extra item, a dignified headgear, specifically during dance-performance. This headdress is a coronal, made of brass and coloured cane, further embellished with porcupine quills . Moreover, the upper edges of these quills are studded with the green feathers of the parrot`s wings, decorated at their tips , with tussocks of contrasting red wool.
The earlier costumes of the Kuki-Chin women had deigns, imitated from the patterns, seen on the hide of snakes . They bore several names, such as Thangang, Saipi-khup, Ponmongvom, and Khamtang. However, these clothes were previously the prerogative of the women of the aristocrat background, like those from the chief`s family and other noble-blood. Indeed, the simplicity yet attractiveness of the traditional costume of Tripura, is attributed to the artistic fervor and weaving-talent of the natives.
RIGNAI
Each of the clans of Tripuri has their own rignai pattern and design. The patterns of the rignai are so distinct that the clan of a Tripuri woman can be identified by the pattern of the rignai she wears. Nowadays there is inter-mingling of the 'rignai' and different clans are wearing 'rignai' of other clans freely and new designs are being woven differently. 'Rikutu' is a plain cloth of different colour and shade woven by the Tripuri ladies.
REGNAI DESIGNS
Different types of designs fashion that are woven in the rignai borok by the Tripuri women are as follows:
It is said that at the time of Subrai Raja, the most famous and legendary King of Tripura, through his 250 wives he had invented two hundred fifty designs of rignai. He married those women whoever invented a new design. But all these design had lost in time and only few are retained till date. The effort to re-discover the lost designs is in process.
ETHNIC WEAR OF UTTARAKHAND:
Costumes of Uttarakhand reflect the culture and lifestyle of the ethnic communities, the Garhwalis and the Kumaoni. The graceful Uttarakhand is adjacent to the neighbouring states of Uttar Pradesh and Himachal Pradesh. Side by side, many Punjabis, Bengalis, and even Nepalis, from neighbouring Tibet, have settled in the state. The Garhwals residing in the Garhwal hills of Uttaranchal follow a costume-pattern suitable to the climatic conditions of the place they belong to. Wool fetched from goat or sheep is used to manufacture warm costumes, so as to ward off the biting cold in winter season.
COSTUMES OF WOMEN
Ghagri , a oriental long skirt , topped off by a Choli, an Indian blouse and an Orni, a cloth covering the head and the front portion, usually fastened to the waist , happen to be the traditional costume of the ethnic groups, namely, the Garhwalis and the Kumaonis.
The traditional bridal costume of the Kumaoni is Ghaghra-Pichora, akin to Ghaghra-Choli. Pichora is a Kumaoni veil or Rangwali, endowed with gold and silver tatting. But women also go for saris. The hallmarks of Kumaoni woman are sindoor smeared on the forehead, and an enormous gold ring, called Nath. Further, Chareu, a black beaded necklace is worn by the married woman, is a holy accessory for Garhwali married woman. A luxury ornament item is Hansuli, a kind of necklace, preferred in gold by the rich, and in silver, by the less affluent, or poor.
COSTUMES OF MEN
The traditional male costume of Uttaranchal is the loin-cloth Dhoti, or the Lungi, used as the lower-garment. The Uttaranchal man dons him in Kurtas, to serve as upper-attire . The men love to present themselves with headgear, or turban, a part of their traditional costume. Kurta-Pajamas is another good alternative for men of Uttarakhand.
Some of the ethnic groups, drape themselves in mantle-like clothing , called Sarong, girdled by a waistband and completed with a top-blouse. Muslin textiles, specially muslin veils or Rangwalis are assets of Uttaranchal costume designing. They come in auspicious hues of yellow, signifying warmth and cordiality and red, symbolic of the holy bond of marriage.
Both women and men wear sweaters or woolen jackets in winter, mainly sleeveless in form.Ethnicity and tradition has very well been maneuvered to be at par with convenience, when it comes to considering the costumes of Uttarakhand.
ETHNIC WEAR OF WEST BENGAL:
Costumes of West Bengal mirror the state’s multi-ethnic way of life. From the use of traditional fabrics, designs and motifs to the assimilation of western attires and styles within the Bengalis` cultural domain, the apparels of West Bengal display fine works of creativity and sophistication. For the men in West Bengal, the traditional garment is the "dhoti" and the "panjabi". The graceful icon of elegance that symbolises the quintessential Bengali woman is the saree. Indian sarees can be draped in various
MENS WEAR
The traditional costumes for the men of West Bengal are dhoti and panjabi. Dhotis are lengthy pieces of fabric spun in cotton or silk worn by the Hindus. Previously, dhotis were prevalent only in white though at present coloured dhotis are also in vogue. The dhoti is tied at the waist and wrapped around like a loin cloth passing in between the legs. It is suitably matched by a panjabi, worn atop, also made of silk or cotton.
The panjabis are loosly fitted garments, reaching close to the knees and are available in a wide variety of colours. The "lungi" is another variation of the dhotis worn by men in West Bengal. It is also wound around the waist and is often plaid. Over the years, the traditional dhoti and panjabi have lost much of their appeal and the `pyajamas` are in vogue. While western attire has overtaken the dhoti`s popularity as regular wear, the combination of dhoti and panjabi is an irreplaceable ingredient during traditional festivals and occasions like the Durga Puja and wedding ceremonies. In the rural areas, though, the dhoti is worn by the men as regular attire.
WOMENS WEAR
Traditional costume of the women of West Bengal is saree, though salwar kameez and western wears are also gaining in popularity. The women of West Bengal prefer to adorn themselves with a variety of colourful sarees, which they wear in a characteristically Bengali fashion. The saree is wrapped around the waist and the remaining portion is swathed over the shoulder. In the olden days, women had to cover their heads with the ends of their saree or "pallu" as a mark of respect for the family elders. However, such conventions have subsided slowly with the passage of time. They are worn with immense dignity and perfection particularly during Social occasions and festivals. Sarees are worn over petticoats or long skirts tied at the waist with cords which help in keeping the saree tightly fastened about the waist. The exquisite beauty of a saree is further enhanced when it is accessorised suitably with a blouse. At present, blouses are available in multitudes of fashionable patterns which when teamed with a saree does wonders to the attire. The salwar kameez dupatta is nowadays in the same way popular among the Bengali women as the sarees. "Salwars" are loosely fitted trousers worn with a "kameez" or long tunic. During wedding ceremonies however, the Bengali women usually resort to the traditional Banarasi sarees in shades of red coupled with a golden veil to cover their heads. Ornamented with glittering stones and detailed thread work, sarees are characteristic of the refined Bengali woman of today.
In West Bengal, sarees are primarily woven in cotton and silk. These sarees have been named chiefly after their weaving techniques. The traditional weavers or "tantis" of West Bengal are reputed worldwide because of the quality of fabric spun and their elaborate thread work. In the various districts of West Bengal like Murshidabad, Malda, Nadia, Birbhum, Bankura and Hooghly, different varieties of sarees are woven with supreme efficiency and dedication. Bengal silk is famous for its sophisticated quality and texture. Earlier, the cultivation of mulberry was common in almost every corner of Bengal. However, at present it is concentrated mostly in the districts of Birbhum, Murshidabad and Malda. The town of Baluchar located in Murshidabad is famed for the incredible threadwork on silk called "Baluchari". The Baluchari sarees are noted for their elaborate designing in the pallu and borders with prominent motifs of a specific kind known as "kalka". These motifs are woven with silver zari and often display tales from the Indian Puranas. The kalka motif can be observed in the "Garad" and "Korial" sarees as well, which are variants of the Baluchari and are woven in silk.
Jamdani sarees of West Bengal are extremely popular. They are available in a variety of colours and are favoured by the modern Bengali woman because of its light texture. In the district of Nadia, the rural community of Shantipur is well-known for the better quality of "Shantipuri Jamdani" sarees that display delicate thread work. The districts of West Bengal are also home to the very prevalent "Tangail" sarees. The Tangail sarees are characterised by their use of diverse colour patterns which produce a novel effect called "meenakari". Some of the most prevalent motifs used in these sarees are lamp and lotus imageries. Another variation of the Jamdani saree is the "Dhaniakhali Jamdani". It is available in brighter shades and is characterised by extended wide borders, often referred to as "maatha" or "beluaari paar". This variant of Jamdani is affordably priced and hence used commonly by the women in West Bengal. It is interesting to note that the Dhaniakhali Jamdani gained popularity due to their utilisation in dhotis for men.
Apart from these traditional handlooms, West Bengal is well-known for its delicate and fine thread work known as "kantha". The kantha embroidery is a supreme work of art and requires utmost concentration and meticulousness. Initially, it referred to the needlework done on coloured patchwork coverlets put together from redundant apparels. These quilts were to serve as covers during the winter. However, now the kantha stitch has been incorporated for use on designing clothing garments like sarees and has gained immense popularity. West Bengal is also home to plenty of tribes who display enormous variety with reference to their costumes. The men of the Magh tribe, for instance, cover their heads with a special form of headgear commonly referred to as "goungpoung" during the festive season. This is accompanied by the "prakha angyi" which is a fitted coat wrapped over the shirt. Body art or tattoos are quite popular among them as well as the Mahli tribesmen of West Bengal.
The costumes of West Bengal are suitably accessorised by delicately designed jewellery which is indigenous to its rich culture. Silver and gold along with alloys of zinc and precious stones are mostly used for jewellery production. While traditional designs are still in vogue, recent trends dictate a preference towards lighter accessories. In weddings, mostly, women adorn their foreheads with a thin string of small gold chain often strewn with pearls and precious stones. This is the "tikli". Gold chokers decorated with gems and diamonds are commonly worn by the women of West Bengal in social ceremonies. The women also embellish themselves with a variety of bangles and bracelets like the "mantasha" and also the "ratanchur". The tribal jewellery of West Bengal has also achieved immense popularity because of its exclusivity. A supreme example here would be the "dokra" artworks.
Over the years, different civilisations have left their mark upon the culture of West Bengal which finds its manifestation in the varied costumes and accessories of the people of the State. With the progress of the passage of time, a shift towards western trends has been noticed. Yet, such cross-cultural influences have by no means demeaned the worth of the traditional attires.
Andhra Pradesh is a representation of true soul of India as it is the home of diverse cultures of India. This South Indian state is most famous for its rich handloom sarees but women here can be seen in other dresses too. The prevalence of IT sector in Hyderabad have made the western womens wear like jeans, skirts and shirts, and ladies kurtis also popular in the state. However, the traditional dress of Andhra Pradesh still is the ethnic handloom sarees that are made at different places and are mostly famous by the names of these places.
COSTUES OF WOMEN
Costumes of Andhra Pradesh are Saree and Blouse for women. The women of all communities together with Muslims wear Sarees and blouses. The skill of draping the saree is in itself an expression of a woman`s creativity. Some Muslim women also put on Salwar Kameez Dupatta.
Sarees of the original handlooms of Andhra Pradesh are complete with ethnicity and richness of texture. Dharmavaram in Andhra Pradesh has world wide repute for the production and distribution of gorgeous silk sarees. These Dharmavaram sarees make for ornate costumes, appropriate for bridal wear, ceremonies, like wedding party, or festivals. The hallmark of these splendid sarees is that their borders are generally brocaded with gold plating. The Gadwal sarees, manufactured in Gadwal of Andhra Pradesh, are one of the most exclusive linen, available in the world. What is unique is the saree`s cotton body, with pure silk borders and pallu (the tail-end of the saree).
The Ikkat saree was first woven in the Nalgonda district of Andhra Pradesh. Now its chief production-sites are Puttapaka, Pochampalli and Chautuppal villages of Andhra Pradesh. A proper know-how is indispensable in their creation. It requires a weaving -pattern, wherein the yarn is arbitrarily dyed in zigzag or geometric structures. The last category of sarees and not the least is the Mangalgiri saree, prepared from fine cotton, in Mangalgiri. All these sarees are the most happening costumes of Andhra Pradesh, not only, but in India and other parts of the globe also.
The Kalamkari fabric contains the paintings of mythological figures and events with vegetable colours. Kalamkari sarees, kurti (tops), salwar-kameez, have become the order of the day and have become the popular costumes of Andhra Pradesh. This particular art form is prevalent in Machilipatnam of Andhra Pradesh. Urbanity in its refined form rules in the epicenter of sophistication, Hyderabad. Here it is normal to come across burqha-clad, veiled Muslim woman, working at the same company with today`s cosmopolitan girls, attired in salwar-kameez and jeans-shirts.
COSTUMES OF MEN
Among the Hindus and Christians men usually wear a Dhoti and Kurta. The Muslims in general wear pyjamas instead of dhotis and kurta and the Fez cap, which though is not so common now.
TRIBAL WEAR
Lambadies are a familiar tribal group in Andhra Pradesh and are well-known for their colourful costumes. The Lambada men have taken on the regional dress but the women folk have to this day preserved their gorgeous colourful and heavy garments, with lot of mirrors and beads studded on them. They dress in wide skirts in many gay and loud shades of red, orange and blue.
The magnificent finesse of the costumes of Andhra Pradesh definitely highlights the deft craftsmanship of the different handlooms and textile-industries. Furthermore, pearls have always been a woman`s pride. Therefore, the costumes of Andhra Pradesh cast such an enigmatic spell, that not only the denizens of the state, are spellbound with their aura, but also the tourists who flock there, to appease their appetite for exotic garments and pearl-jewellery.
ETHNIC WEAR OF BIHAR:
Bihar, the land that has inculcated traditional old values to the core, is noted for its hand woven textiles in the field of costume. Particularly, the rustic crowd of Bihar adheres to the traditional pattern of dresses and jewellery. Though most of the population of the state still remains in rural areas the costumes worn by them are still traditional. The clothes for the people of different religions are a bit divergent.
COSTUMES OF MEN
The senior male citizens of Bihar, irrespective of Hindu or Muslim, favour tradition, when it comes to costumes. If a Hindu elderly person prefers Dhoti (an Indian loin cloth), a Muslim person might dress himself in Lungi (a type of petticoat for men) or Pyjama (loose trousers). As an upper garment, men usually go for Kurta (loose, normally cotton, Indian, T-shirts), and shirts.
However, the men resort to attractive apparels for ceremonies, festivals and social gatherings. Kurtas, Churidar, Pyjamas and Sherwani are the ideal costumes, chosen for such special occasions, where accurate attitude owes a lot to an impressive dressing style. The Muslims, Sikhs, and Christian males are habituated in luxuriating in the fragrance of perfumes and "attar" on an every day basis. It is interesting to note that men of Bihar inhabit a penchant for ornaments. They decorate themselves with bala or bali (bangles) in Shahabads, Kanausi in Patna and Gaya. Again Gowalas (the milkmen) flaunt themselves in Kundals (earrings). However, malas or bead necklaces are on the rise these days, than, the other ornaments.
COSTUMES OF WOMEN
The costume of the women folk of Bihar is chosen carefully in keeping with tradition. As per tradition, married women, smear the hair- parting zone with powder of Sindoor or vermillion. Tikli, a forehead-adorning little ornament is added to the hair-partitioning area. On the forehead, a Bihari married woman, be she an urban or a rural one, usually applies bindi. A lot of Bihari women, love applying Kajal i.e. eye-pencil, or antimony eye-make-up called Surma, to improve the appeal of their eyes. They also indulge in flattering their senses with soothing aromatic oils that leave them perfumed, and refreshed, in the mind and body. Tattoo-paintings are broadly prevalent among Bihari women. They give detailed attention to their hands, and beautify them with Mehendi-designs (a kind of tattooing, done with colors fetched from herbal product like, amla or shikakai).
ETHNIC WEAR OF CHANDIGARH:
Chhatisgarh, India`s 26th state, was carved out of Madhya Pradesh on 1st Nov. 2000. Chattisgarh is known for its tribal weaving. Chhattisgarh, formerly known as Southern Kosal.Chhattisgarh is a state with a rich heritage, striking diversity, lush green forests, distinct geographical features and a multitude of ethnic groups. The presence of several ethnic tribal groups adds more hues to the costumes of Chhattisgarh. . Women are fond of `Kachhora` a typical manner of wearing saree. In fact women wearing `Lugda` (saree) and `Polkha` (blouse) with set of attractive ornaments are symbolic of tradition and heritage of Chhattisgarh.
The costumes of Chhattisgarh exhibit colors. Fabrics like linen, silk and cotton are used in the costumes made here. The craftsmen of this state have borrowed various fabric-making techniques from its neighboring and parent state of Madhya Pradesh.
Batik, weaving and tie-dye are the various techniques used in fabric-making. Threads are tied up firmly, dipped in multi-colored dyes and are tied to pieces of cloth to produce various imprints. This technique is known as Bandhani. Fabric is painted with molten wax and is dyed with various colors of cold dyes to produce a design called 'Batik'. Though these cloth-making practices are not widespread in Chhattisgarh, they are practiced to a certain extent in the state.
In the urban areas, trousers and shirts, sarees and salwar suits are worn by the men and the women respectively. The costumes worn here are just like those worn all over India. They have no characteristic features or specialties. Sarees in varieties like Maheshwari silk, Orissa silk, Chanderi silk, Batik print sarees, etc. are worn by the women in the urban areas here.
It is the tribal costumes of Chhattisgarh that endow the costumes of the state with a unique identity and arise interest among the tourists. The tribal men and women wear bright and colourful costumes. Use of a variety of colours in the costumes is the distinct feature of the costumes worn here. Jewelry like neckpieces made of metal casts, silver ghungroos, chunky wooden bangles, etc. is worn widely by the tribal population. Men in tribal groups like Halbas, Ghotuls, Abhuj Marias, Murias, etc. wear dhotis and headgears like cotton turbans, for protection from the harsh sun during the day. The women wear knee-length or full length sarees in bright colours.
A wonderful display of tribal costumes can be witnessed during festivals. Peacock feathers, bright headgears, chunky ornaments made of wood, metal, etc. lend a colourful atmosphere to the air of festivities. Gaudy costumes in striking colours too are features of the tribal festivals. Ornaments made of beads, feathers and cowries are seen amply in these festivals. Ghungroos and beads made of silver and other material make a tinkling sound and add to the already-high spirit of the festivals.
Hence the costumes of Chhattisgarh are the costumes of the rural and tribal groups. They are rich, beautiful and inimitable.
ETHNIC WEAR OF GUJRAT:
Exquisitely stylized and intricately embroidered, the Gujrati attire is simply eye-catching. Dazzling with vibrant colours, flooded with striking mirror work and stunning jewellery it`s one of the most alluring customs in India. The mirror work and embroidery work forms an integral part of Gujrati handicrafts irrespective of the community or ethnic group to which they belong, however the workmanship differs. In fact the various communities can be identified by the pattern of handicrafts and dress or costumes they were. For instance, the Garacia Jat women wear only red or black chunis while Rabari women wear black open blouses or cholis with odhnis to cover head.
COSTUMES OF MEN
Gujarati men usually attire themselves in dhoti, long or short coat and turban cap. At present, however, pants are becoming more fashionable instead of the conventional dhoti. The usual Gujarati dresses of the women also comprise sari and blouse. Parsi males wear pants, long coat and a headgear. The commonest type of dress worn by males in rural areas consists of cotton drawers called `chorno` and a short `kediyu` or `angarakhu` covering the upper part of the body. Most of the people especially agriculturists still continue to put on the typical head dress, thickly folded `phento` or turban. Elderly males of higher classes put on `dhoti` (waistcloth) and `kafani` or `peharan` (shirt).
COSTUME OF WOMEN
The traditional Gujarat dresses for women consist of the lehenga choli or the ghagra choli. These are colorfully embroidered and complemented by bare-backed blouses extending to the waist. Ghagras or lehengas are gathered ankle-length skirts that are fastened at the waist. The entire outfit is completed by a veil cloth called odhni or dupatta which is thrown across the neck or over the head. The lehenga choli, otherwise known as the ghagra choli, helps to add vitality and color to the surrounding landscapes. Tribal women adorn themselves from head to toe with chunky silver jewelry besides the Gujarat dresses that are the norm everywhere in the state.
The garments of the Parsi women are exactly the same as that in which other Hindu ladies dress themselves except for the very pronounced difference that is embodied in the long sleeves of the blouse and a scarf to serve as a cover for the head.
Women in villages put on `chaniyo` the coloured petticoat often embroidered with `abhala` or glass pieces, a similarly embroidered blouse or bodice called as `choli` or `polku` along with `odhani`, a coloured piece of coarse cloth covering the body and the head.
ABHAS - Traditional Costume of Kutch Region
Typical Kutchi costume is incomplete without `Abha` or `Kanjari`. `Abha` is the name of the typical choli worn by women folk and `Kanjari` is a long blouse beautifully embroidered and with mirror work. Most men in Kutch wear loose trousers, a long-sleeved under-jacket, and a short coat, a plain or silk-bordered cloth. Normally men prefer white clothes except the Muslims who prefer colored clothes.
Exquisitely styled and intricately embroidered, Abhas, the traditional costume of the region of Kutch, has entered the world of high fashion. Successfully adapted to modern styles by Anjali Mangaldas, this beautiful garment has become a rage with the fashion conscious women.
In the village of Kutch, the women looked beautiful in their fabulous Abhas as they swayed to the music. The twinkling lights played mischievously over the gold and thread embroidery while the sequins and badla work sparkled continuously. A woman in an abha, the traditional costume of the Khatri, Memon and Korja Muslim communities of Kutch is a sight to behold. This garment from Kutch, a district in Gujarat, has a history that is as colourful and exciting as the garment. In ancient times the women wore the abha embellished with beautiful tie-dye designs, zari thread embroidery that was very minute and intricate embroidery in coloured silk or cotton thread in a combination of a variety of stitches, integrating minuscule mirror discs into its elaborate and distinct pattern.
The word abha-has been derived from aba a word commonly used in the Middle Eastern countries which means a top garment or a mantle. The abha based on an age-old traditional classical cut and style, is basically a kalidar kurta without a slit on the sides, with a lose flair and it hangs lower than a normal kurta. The abha has been a collector’s item since the last four generations. The best have even been part of collections auctioned in the west by Christys and Sothebys Research scholars have not yet been able to pinpoint the historical period or influence on these costumes. Unfortunately modernity has compelled these lovely costumes into museums or wooden boxes in far off villages. The genuine abhas could be date back nearly a century.
Ras and Garba Costumes
The Ras dance is considered to be the form of Ras Leela, which Krishna used to perform when he was leading the life of a cowherd boy at Gokul and vrindavan. The Ras is by itself very simple and is generally performed by a group of youthful people who move in a circle to measured steps, marking time by sticks called dandias keeping in their hands and singing in chorus accompanied by dhol, cymbals, zanz, flute or shehnai.
The typical folk costumes for this dance is a small coat called Keviya with tight sleeves and pleated frills at the waist with embroidered borders and shoulders, tight trousers like chudidars and colorfully embroidered cap or coloured turban and coloured kamarbandha i.e. waistband, which stands direct contrast to the general colour scheme the costume.
COSTUME FOR BRIDE
Ethnicity is the key, when it comes to Gujarati wedding attire for the bride. Traditionally, saree has been the ideal ethnic dress for a bride, draped in a Gujarati style, coupled with traditional jewelry pieces, in a Gujarati wedding. Talking about traditional Gujarati saree, there are two basic types - the Panetar, a white sari with red bandhini border and the Gharchola, traditional red bandhini sari crisscrossed with woven gold squares, enclosing bandhini motifs. Though red is considered as the most auspicious color for the bride, with the changing times, contemporary color and designs have become hot favorite option. Traditional bandhini saris in old rose, jade green, peach etc. with zari borders are making way as the most picked bridal wear. Designer bridal lehangas available in different shades are gaining momentum as well. Stylish and chic looking, these lehangas are luring more and more girls into buying them for the special day of their lives.
COSTUME FOR GROOM
In a traditional Gujarati marriage, grooms opt for dhoti kurta. Cream, fawn and lemon yellow are the most preferred color choice for the groom. To spice up the look, he can also wear a red colored Bandhej dupatta around his neck. However, in the present times, traditional attire is giving way to the modern styled attire. The main effect of this is seen in metropolitan cities, wherein the traditional ethnic clothing has taken a little back stage. More and more men prefer exploring the western wear category. Formal suits have become the ideal choice of the town. As such, for the modern men, the fashion designers are coming up with designer Gujarati wedding bridegroom wear, such as indo western kurta pyjamas, so that traditional and ethnic wears continue to dominate the wedding scene.
ETHNIC WEAR OF HARYANA:
The vibrancy of the people of Haryana finds expression in their lifestyle too. Their simplicity and spirited enthusiasm for life is evident in their way of dressing up. The women of the region have a special attraction towards colours.
COSTUMES OF MEN
It consists of a dhoti, shirt, turban and a pair of shoes. A blanket or chaddar serves as wrapper. The turban has a different style for a Jat, an Ahir, a Rajput, a Bania or a Brahman.
COSTUMES OF WOMEN
There is also difference in the dress of various communities particularly among women. A Jat woman's full dress, thel, consist of ghaggri, shirt and a printed orhni (a length of cloth draped over the front and shoulders) the ghaggri seldom falling below the calves. The Ahir woman can always be recognized by her lehenga or peticoat, angia (a tight blouse) and orhni. Her orhni is broader than that of a Jat women. She employs it also to cover her abdomen. It is usually red or yellow, decorated with bosses and fringes, with a fall. The Rajput woman's dress is similar to that of an Ahir woman. Their orhni may be plain white with silver fringe but without a fall. The dhotis and saris are the favourite items of dress among Brahmans and Aggarwal women.
A woman would need at least three different sets of clothes, one for working at the grindstone, another for the field, another for drawing water from the well. Clothes indicate family status.
WEDDING DRESS
Coloured clothes are worn by the Hindus at weddings. The marriage party colour their duppatas only and the bridegroom his turban. A duppata or overcloth, kamiz or skirt, pajamas, salwar or ghagra with differences in make and colour is generally the female dress. Among the educated classes in the villages women are taking to saris of different colours. The dresses worn by women display more variety than male attires. The dress also proclaims the caste or community of the woman. A Gujjar woman can be known at once from the blue clothes and a Chamar from her red clothes. Round bits of glass are adorned by the clothes of a Gujjar women. Unmarried girls abstain from gaudy dress to avoid undue attention.
ETHNIC WEAR OF JAMMU AND KASHMIR:
The state of Jammu and Kashmir in many respects has problems of isolation, backward and inaccessible areas, and lack of an industrial base and employment opportunities. However, the state is vested with a substantial water resource, mineral base, and is famous the world over for its exquisite handicrafts, handloom products, tourism, horticulture produce and cottage industry. While the state has enormous potential for the flourishing of various industries, it has lagged behind in the field of industrialization. For promoting prosperity and ensuring equitable economic development throughout the state, the state government has been encouraging the flow of investments in areas with high employment potential and helping in utilizing local skills and raw materials to advantage.
The woollen and silken carpets of the state remain unparalleled on the national scene for quality and design. The crewel embroidered pashmina, and embroidered raffal shawls, pattern of Kani shawls, intricate wood carving, production of flora design in paper machie goods, etc., are some of the world famous traditional crafts of the state.
Costumes of Jammu and Kashmir provide an account of the various cultural and ethnic influences in the long history of the region. What makes Jammu and Kashmir`s costumes and attires different from the rest of India is because of the blend of three distinct cultural backgrounds. Filled with greener pastures the dressing in the region of Kashmir becomes more colourful with exquisite embroidered work that accompanies their clothes, especially the shawls and Pherans, which are embroidered with intricate patterns of multihued threadwork. Up above in Ladakh , the dressing sense is having a trans-Himalayan influence in it. One can check the true colours of this barren cold desert in the festive seasons when the ceremonial attires just astound the spectators. Kashmiri Muslims used to wear the pheran, a long loose gown hanging down below the knees, a white turban tied on a skull cap, a close-fitting shalwar and lace less shoes called gurgabi. A white piece of material is hung on their shoulders like a stole. Hindu men wear churidar pyjama instead of shalwar. The less affluent Muslims wear skull caps, which looks cute and does not carry any shawl.
The Pashmina and the Shahtush shawls are the most popular apparels of the state of Jammu and Kashmir. The Pashminas bear the Kasida design that is unique to the state of Jammu and Kashmir. Threaded designs and motifs are stitched on both sides of the shawl maintaining uniformity in the design.
COSTUME OF KASHMIRI MEN
The pheran is the most commonly worn garment among men. Hindu men usually wear churidars while the Muslim men are dressed in salwars beneath the formidable pherans. The pheran is a loosely fitted woollen garment which makes use of the `kangri`. The kangri is an earthen vessel which is filled with flaming coal. It is then placed within a container made of natural fibre. The kangri is usually placed in the front, skillfully shrouded by the pheran. It functions as an internal heating system in order to keep the wearer warm during the extreme cold winters.
The `pathani` suit, also referred to as `Khan-dress`, is a popular garb among the men, especially in Srinagar. Turbans are common among Muslim men. Skull caps are extremely prevalent, especially among the peasants and the `karakuli` or fur skull caps along with the Pashmina shawls worn by men often symbolize royal lineage. The Pashmina shawls are made from traditional woollen textiles which are obtained from mountain goat. Intricate work is done on both sides of these shawls. The special Kashmiri embroidery work, Kasida, is done in such a manner that the patterns appear in a uniform manner on both sides of the fabric. The Pashmina belts and `kamarbands" are common too. The Muslim men wear lace-free shoes known as Gurgabis. Brocade, camel hair and cashmere are the main elements that are used in the making of coats and fleece for men.
COSTUMES OF KASHMIRI WOMEN
Kashmiri women are among the most beautiful in India. They have "an English rosiness of complexion behind the Eastern tan". The colour of their hair ranges from golden red to brunette and that of eyes from green, blue, grey to black. Besides being boats-women and farmers, the women of Kashmir lend a hand to their men-folk at shawl making, embroidery and other handicrafts.
The pheran is the prominent attire for Kashmiri women as well. Traditionally, there are the `poots` and the pheran, comprising two robes placed atop the other. The pheran worn by women usually has zari embroidery on the hem line, around pockets and mostly on the collar area. The pherans worn by the Muslim women are traditionally characterized by their broad sleeves and reach up to the knees. However, the Hindus of Jammu and Kashmir wear their pherans long, stretching up to their feet with narrowed down sleeves. Often, the pherans are wrapped tightly by a piece of creased cloth called `lhungi`. The Hindu women wear a headdress called the `taranga`, stitched to a suspended cap and it narrows down at the back, towards the heels. The taranga is an integral part of the wedding attire among Hindus.
Elaborate zari embroideries or floral patterns around the neck and the pockets are a prominent feature of a Muslim woman`s pheran. Brocade patterns adorn their long sleeves.
The pheran is accompanied by red headgears known as the `kasaba`. The kasaba is stitched in the form of a turban and is pinned together by ornaments and silver brooches. A pin-scarf suspended from the kasaba descends towards the shoulder. It is worn by the Muslim women as a part of their regular attire. The `abaya` is also commonly worn by them. For unmarried Muslim women, the costumes vary to some extent. The elaborate headgears are replaced by exquisitely ornate skull caps embellished with threads of gold, talismans and gems.
Costumes worn by ethnic groups of Kashmir
The Jammu and Kashmir landscape is dotted with various ethnic groups.
DOGRA
Dogra are tribes residing amidst the hilly topography of Jammu. The Dogra Women wear long, loose tunics, close-fitting chudidars and dupatta or cap to complete their charming ensemble.Similar fitted pajamas and kurtas of considerable length constitute the costume of the Dogra men. The use of kamarbands and turban are prominent among the Dogra elders.
GUJJARS
The Gujjars, also residents of Jammu, are the second-largest group of ethnic tribes inhabiting in Kashmir. The members of this tribe are mostly shepherds. The Gujjar women are dressed in loose sleeved tunics coupled with baggy salwars. They cover their head by an elaborate headgear, akin to the ones worn by the women in Turkish villages.
LADHAKIS
Ladkh is a part of the state Jammu and Kashmir.Ladakh is known as the `land of the Lamas` and the Buddhist of Ladakh prefer to call their religion Lamaism - which is much the same as Mahayana (or Great vehicle) form of Buddhism.Ladakhi men wear long, grey, woolen gowns fringed with sheep-skin and tied at the waist with girdles of blue colour, multi-coloured velvet caps, fringed with black fur earlaps. Their women wear colourful clothes. Their special turquoise-studded headgear called Perak, is made of red cloth or goat skin and hangs up to the forehead and tapers down to the waist at the back. Brooches of turquoise and other semi-precious stones embellish their headgear, bangles and ear ornaments.
DRESS FOR LADHAKHIS WOMEN
The women wear a similar robe called a "Kuntop" but on their backs they add a colourful shawl, the "Bok" - in which a baby or parcels can easily be carried.
DRESS FOR LADHAKHIS MEN
The men wear `Goucha`, a woollen robe made of sheep skin fixed at the neck. It is wound at the waist by a bright sash called `Skerag`. It extends to about 2 metres in length and 20 cm in breadth. The Skerag serves as an enclosure for the Ladakhi men to carry their bare essentials. Men in Ladakh wear velvet multihued caps while the women adorn turquoise colored hats named `Perak`. According to tradition, upon a woman`s demise, the perak is handed down to her eldest child. In Ladakh, footwear made of Yakskin and wool is known as `Papu`.
It has been seen that over the years, the people of Jammu and Kashmir have adopted the dressing style and habits of the west as well as those of other regional Indian cultures. This is noticed primarily among the men have appropriated the western attire to a great extent. The sari is more popular among the Hindu women after the 1930s Reform Movement. However, despite these influences, the traditional pheran continues to remain the symbol of the culture and couture of Jammu and Kashmir.
ETHNIC WEAR OF KARNATAKA:
Karnataka dresses share the distinctiveness and elegance of South Indian clothing. The dresses of Karnataka bespeak grace, convenience and decency which are integral to the cultural ethos of the state. Costumes of Karnataka consist of regal silk sarees, which happen to be the traditional costumes of this place. Karnataka is the silk hub of the country. Karnataka silk has a wide spectrum. It has abundant variety, namely, smooth silks, sleek chiffons, and gorgeous brocades. These saris not only decorate women in the state, but also establish its sway in other parts of the country and in foreign nations. Indeed, Bengaluru and Mysore are the epicenters of silk-industries in South India. The marvelous shine, the super quality thread and the interweaving of gold threads in exclusive creations, attribute to the profound popularity of the sari as the favorite costume.
COSTUMES OF MEN
Men drape a piece of cloth known as an angavastram around their shoulders and also wear a wraparound skirt called a lungi. The garments are made of a light material and generally dyed in neutral earth tones for casual wear.When it comes to considering the office costume of Karnataka men, they wear formal shirts, or T-shirts or trousers, without having the privilege of many options. However, on special occasions, men might dress themselves in ornate versions of their traditional costume, the Panche, which is Dhoti-like apparel. In recent times, only the rustic men of Karnataka stick to Panche, as their everyday costume. Mysore Peta is the traditional headdress for Karnataka.
COSTUMES OF WOMENS
Sarees have been the traditional dress for women in Karnataka. Traditionally, the saree is worn in the characteristic nivi style of southern India with pleats in the front and sometime passed on to the rear to facilitate movement.
The Kanjeevaram or Kanchipurram silks, of Kanchipuram in Karnataka, dazzle the eye with the rich texture, mind-blowing colours, and fabulous designs. The Kanchipuram Silk Saree is a hand-woven creation. The silk yarn is dyed to bring the desired colour and afterwards Jari is interleaved into the yarn. Pure Jari is a silk thread, intertwined with a thin silver wire and then gilded with pure gold. The Jari adds the element of shimmer in the yarn. The technique of Kanchipuram-making calls for Sarees the conjunction of three threads to concertedly make the silk thread used for weaving. This gives the sari a durable quality. Hence, the outstanding Kanchipuram sarees usually turn out to be the bridal costume of Karnataka.
Among the other popular items, Mysore silk, deserve mention. The magnificent mantle, the lustrous zari and the rich silk, make the saree assume an enchanting look. These sarees are less expensive than the queen of silks, Kanchipuram silks. Therefore, its reasonable costs make it more affordable for the ordinary people and, still give them the elegance, they are searching for. Arani Silks, Valkalams, Kora Silks, Patola Sarees, exclusive Designer Mysore Silk Sarees, Crepe Silk Sarees, Chiffon Sarees, and Raw Silk saris can satisfy the aesthetically aware population of Karnataka. Sarees with this impressive variety is thus the traditional costume of Karnataka. The Kornadu sarees are fascinating in their fusion-display of cotton and silk. The saris are woven in a blue cotton yarn together with a silk yarn in other multiple shades. The motifs in the sarees are varied and the body of the sari either bestowed with checks or stripes. These sarees are used as daily comfort wears.
The Mysore crepe silk, is apt as costume for office or workplace, more because of its light-weight, and easier maintenance. It is supple opaque crepe silk complemented with Jari margins. These saris are dyed in spectacular colours after the completion of the weaving. The Ilkal and the Mokalmuru sarees stand as the ethnic motif of Karnataka. It is used for regular wear and tear and also as traditional costume, by a fashion-conscious Karnataka lady. Karnataka presents before the world its harmonisation of modernity and tradition. When Bangalore reigns as the Silicon Valley of India, it is evident that women and men will also adhere to the formal office wear, suitable for working environs. Today`s girls might wear Mysore crepe salwars, or Karnataka handloom`s cotton salwar or saree, or even Western jeans and trousers, while going to office.
KODAVA
The Coorgi style follows the usual manners of Karnataka's dresses but with slight variations. Members of the Coorg community of the Kodavu district have their individual and slightly distinct style of wearing the saree. Here the pleats are created on the back allowing free movement of the legs. The remaining part of the saree is then brought over the right shoulder and pinned. While men don a wraparound robe called a kupya. Kodavas are famous for their elaborate attire, and men wear a long black coat, scarlet sash and gilded turban on special occasions.
DANCE COSTUME
Yakshagana is a traditional dance of Karnataka where the dancers wear colourful costumes. The traditional costume for this dance comprises of dhoti, a pyjama, a jacket and a loose gown. Most of the costumes of the dancers who perform the traditional ritualistic dances of Karnataka, are eye catching, colourful and bright.
ETHNIC WEAR OF MAHARASHTRA:
Maharashtra, one of the largest and most populous states of India, demonstrates an array of costumes, suiting the purpose of any occasion, as well as weather conditions. It can be said that costumes of Maharashtra truly reflect the identity of a typical Maharashtrian culture. A nine yard sari is a traditional costume of its women, and dhoti and shirt is the traditional costume of its men folk. Maharashtra has a vast textile history, which has contributed to its rich variety of costumes. Pune, Paithan and Kolhapur are some of the ideal places to shop for typical Maharashtrian clothing.
WOMEN’S COSTUME The traditional costume of women in Maharashtra is a nine-yard long saree, called Nauvari. This saree bears a resemblance to male trousers. This specific style of draping does not require a petticoat or a slip beneath it. The Nauvari saree has a historical background. During the Maratha rule, women were entrusted with the grave responsibility of helping their male partners, at emergency period of wars. To facilitate easy movement, the Maharashtrian women then introduced the Nauvari Saree.
The fabric of Nauvari Saree is usually cotton, and for special occasions, silk tops the priority list. Paithani sarees happen to be the treasured creation of Maharashtra`s textile-industry. The Paithani saree, invested with an 18 inch to 25 inch pallu, owes its origin to adept The Brahmin ladies of Maharashtra wear sarees in a particular pattern where the pleats are located at or near the back and these are tucked in waist and the decked part of the saree is left open on the shoulder part. They use choli with the sarees and often polkas and blouses. The Maharashtrian women prefer to deck themselves in beautiful jewelleries. Most of the designs of the jewelleries are of Peshwa and Maratha style. Among the most favoured jewelleries are the haar, nath or nose ring decorated with pearl or vibrant coloured stones. Some of the necklaces they wear include bangdya, Kolhapuri Saaj, tode and patlya.
Silk is woven to constitute the body of the royal Paithani silks. And into this rich silk texture, pure Jari-made of gold and silver threads, are interwoven, to give the Saree the ornamented get-up. The bright Paithani sarees are very popular as the bridal costume in Maharashtra. The Paithani sarees are thus essentially linked to the culture and society of Maharashtra. The sarees have received their name after the place of its origin, Paithan in Maharashtra. The other weaving-sites of this exclusive item are Yeola, Pune, Nasik and Malegaon in Maharashtra.
MEN’S COSTUME The men of Maharashtra uphold Dhoti as their cultural heritage. It may be worn along with a shirt or kurta, and Dhoti is often substituted with trousers. They also wear `bandi` over the shirt and turban called `pheta` and `pagadi`. The festive occasions of the Maharashtrians allow themselves to indulge in the festive mood and during this time most of the men wear Churidar, Pyjama, Ackan or Survar.
The Maratha Brahmans are very particular about the securing of their dhoti, which always had to have five tucks, three into the waistband at the two sides and in front, while the loose end is tucked in front and behind. Once Nagpur hand-made dhotis were famous for their durability.
In the urban areas of Maharashtra, and especially in its cosmopolitan capital, Mumbai, costumes display themselves in their variety best. Women put in Kurta-Pajamas, salwar-kameez, skirt-blouse, and jeans-trousers, exotic Sarees and so on. The urban Mumbai men on the other hand, flaunt themselves with the halo of grooming. They shift from wearing jeans, trousers, branded shirts, baggy trousers, T-shirts, all possible types of casual wears. On occasions, sherwanis, kurta-pajamas, ornate Dhotis, and other kinds of resplendent men`s attire, rank among their favorites. Indeed, Mumbai the glam-epicenter of India, and the abode of Bollywood, is the trendsetter for costumes, for the whole of India. Fashion experiences its high, in the posh cities of Maharashtra, with fashion-designing institutes and business units, establishing their sway.
The state of Maharashtra, hence has achieved a splendid synthesis of the old and the new patterns in costume. Time and the effect of globalisation have brought a drastic change in the costumes of each and every state and Maharashtra as well. Though the modernisation has a great impact in the society, the tradition has not faded its glitter, thus the traditional dresses have not lost the glory of their past. It has also focused on the traditional and regional textile-accomplishments like Paithani as the `in-thing` now.
ETHNIC WEAR OF ORISSA:
Orissa is the only state that showcases India’s wealth in its splendid temples, shrines, glistening golden beaches and crowing architecture, sculptures and other diverse arts and crafts. Orissa, India is known for its ethnic and traditional handcrafted items, be it clothes, rugs or decorative items. The Tourism industry gets a major boost because of these art forms as people come from far and wide to simply watch these amazingly skillful artisans at work while they create these handcrafted items. If one plans to visit any hilly area in Orissa, then good woolen clothing is recommended in winters.
The village folk wear the traditional dress of dhoti and kurta and the women folk sarees. The working people put on shoulder a small piece of cloth called gamuchha, which is used for wiping one's body or tying it around the head as turban when necessary. Lungi is becoming popular with the younger people, but is used only as an informal dress. Boys wear shorts and shirts and girls, vests and frocks. The youth and the urban elites have mostly taken to the European sartorial fashion; shalwar and kameej has become a fashion with most urbanite girls. Simplicity is the criterion of dress and ornaments today. The old fashioned ornaments, which had their classic forms of beauty, have been discarded throughout by the women folk at the various levels of society. Sleek ornaments are very much in fashion now-a-days.
ODISSI DANCE COSTUME
Odissi is the traditional dance of Orissa. The costume is similar to that of traditional Bharathanatyam costume. Light cottons in summer and light woolens in winter.. Odissi dance attire like other Indian Classical dance has a stitched costume (pyjama style) made out of the special Orissa handloom sarees. The sarees have their special borders and intricate designs that sets them apart from other sarees. Earlier, there were no stitched costumes but only the sarees used to be draped around. But over a period of time, the stitched costume has been used more frequently because of its convenience.
Orissa is recognized in India for its handlooms, especially the Orissa saris (six yard material draped around as clothing for Indian women). The saris usually have bright eye-catching color combinations, such as the ones you see displayed in the titles, banners and borders above, and different patterns, animals, etc repeated over the length of the saris. The state is also known for the intricate silver filigree jewellery. In Odissi dance, both the sari and jewellery are showcased in the attire.
Originally, the Orissa saris were draped around the dancers in a specific manner for the costume. However, due to time constraints and for greater ease and neatness, costumes are now stitched in that specific manner, so that the dancers could easily change into different costumes during a program. In Orissa there are many different designs and motifs woven in cotton and silk to create the distinctive saris of Orissa - Bomkai, Teliarumaal, Sambalpuri which are cherished by women in India.
TRIBAL COSTUMES
Each tribal community has separate mode of living and they differ significantly in their dress, ornaments, skill in building houses, and moreover in their way of life. This difference in their life is clearly discernible from their material culture, art objects from the paintings and drawings and also from the size and shapes of different objects that they use. To the tribal, dress is a cultural need and it is also a part of their tradition.
Among the tribals the use of dress is very significant and worthwhile. The tribals do not use dress just merely to hide their nakedness rather it reflects the racial feeling and their cultural identity. The tribals use separate costumes at the time of festivals and ceremonies. In a specific tribe the dresses from birth to old age has immense variety. The costumes of the male members of the tribe and the females are also different. It is a fact that the female community pays more attention in covering their body. In some tribal communities the women folk want their male partners to be dressed elegantly and impressively. A tribal woman also wears a variety of dresses from her birth to death corresponding to different stages of her life. For instance, a Dhangedi(a maiden) adorns with fine clothes to attract the attention of others while the Gurumai, the priestess wears formal clothes to worship the goddess for the betterment of her community. Dress also helps them in many adversities and also helps to propitiate gods and goddesses who safeguard them against the malevolent atrocities of the ghosts, spirits, etc.
The tribals also use dress according to the position of individual in the society like the clan's head, the priest, and the revenue collector etc. The dress that they use at the time of marriage, birth, death, worship etc. is also different. They use dresses keeping in view the occasion, age, sex and other factors. For example, the priest does not use the normal dress at the time of worship. And again at the time of dancing they dress in a very attractive manner. And the dancing costume has also special significance. They also wear dresses in different styles. While dressing they also keep in their mind the surroundings. They also think of their convenience and inconvenience while dressing themselves for an occasion. Especially they do not like to dress very pompously at the time of any work. But when they go for shopping to the near by market place or to visit any fair or festival they dress themselves quite exuberantly and exquisitely.
Different tribal communities use different kind of dresses, differing in their color and size. Their dresses are designed keeping in view their necessity and their surrounding. The socio-cultural and the religious views of the tribals slightly contribute for the variety in their dresses.
The tribal costumes are very simple and it provides immense comfort to the wearer. Generally, in the Kandha community the Dongria Kandha, the Kutia Kandha and the Desia Kandha, Lanjia Saora and the Santhals depend on other communities (non-tribal artisans) for their clothes. Lanjia Saora and some other tribal community make threads by themselves and give it to the Damas to weave for them. And again they purchase that cloth from the Damas by cash or kind. While the Bondo and the Didayi, the Gadabas weave their own clothes though the Dangrias purchase the cloth from the neighbouring Damas. They knit fine needle work on it and use it.
ETHNIC WEAR OF PUNJAB:
Costumes of Punjab are indicative of the bright and vibrant culture and lifestyle of the people. The costumes are a mix of colour, comfort and beauty. It may be noted here that the state of Punjab is well known for the use of phulkari in its costumes. It is a kind of flower work embroidery done most often on shawls. These shawls are worn over a tight-fitting choli and ghagra. Phulkari forms the traditional costume of rural women of this region. In earlier days, Phulkaris were made for everyday wear. Usually the border and field of the shawl were not so densely embroidered, with much of the ground cloth exposed. For ceremonial purposes, a special kind of phulkari known as "bagh" (garden) was made in which the whole of the ground was covered with embroidery, so that the base cloth was not visible at all.
In Punjab, there was a particular community oftextile workers called “Chhimba”. They used to print khaddar cloth with hand blocks. In most cases, the white cloth was supplied by the customer. It was first dyed and then printed by the Chhimbas. The printed designs were mainly floral and geometrical, sometimes bird and animal motifs were also used.
COSTUMES OF WOMEN
A popular, comfortable and convenient dress worn by the women of Punjab is the churidar kurta. This was traditionally the dress worn in Punjab, but is now worn almost everywhere, particularly among the younger generations. Punjabi girls and women also wear salwar kameez`s with bright colored duppattas. A salwar kameez has two pieces of clothes- the kameez, or shirt or top piece; and the salwar, (pants) or bottom piece. A duppatta is a piece of colorful cloth that women wear around their necks. Salwar kameez`s and duppattas come in a variety of colors and designs. Punjabi girls and women wear salwar kameez`s with bright colored duppattas. The women can also be seen wearing shawls adorned with the beautiful phulkari shawls. The shawl is completely covered in thick silk embroidery and folk motifs done in jewel-tones on an ochre background.
COSTUMES OF MEN
The traditional costume of the men of Punjab comprises a kurta pyjama. The kurta is a kind of loose shirt which is long and straight-cut. The pyjamas are loose, baggy pants which are tied at the waist. Some men also wear the kurta with the loongi or tehmat, which is a kind of sarong. During winters they can be seen wearing bright colourful sweaters. Some of the boys and even the brown up men can be seen wearing loose pants or slacks with a collared shirt or t-shirt. The Sikhs among the Punjabis can be distinctly identified by their attire as they are obliged by religion to wear turbans known as `puggs`. Traditional Punjabi shoes, called juttis are extremely popular with men in both the rural and urban areas. They are extremely comfortable and also look very elegant.
The modern urban Punjabi men have also adopted the western style of dressing and are equally at ease in a pair of jeans and t-shirt as they are in the loongi and kurta. For the purposes of formal wear, Punjabi men can be seen wearing shirts and trousers.
Thus the costumes of Punjab can be best seen in all their beauty and resplendent colours in the state of Punjab, especially in the rural areas. The traditional Punjabi shoes, called juttis retain their popularity with both rural and urban men; they are both elegant and comfortable. Patiala and Muktsar are famous for juttis. It is impossible to tell by dress whether a Punjabi woman is a Hindu, Muslim, Sikh or Christian - they all dress in salwar topped by a kameez (a garment that can be fitted like a dress loose like the kurta) and accented by a rectangular scarf about 2.5 metres long called the chunni or duppatta . She`s fond of her sweaters, but she is passionately proud of her collection of woollen shawls. These can be breathtaking. The women of Punjab are responsible for the state`s most famous item of handicraft - the phulkari.
Traditional Bhangra Dress (for Men)
Dress for Bhangra is as colourful and vibrant as the Bhangra dance itself. Bhangra costumes effectively portrays the rich and vivid colors of rural Punjab and also the zest for life of Punjabi folk. Bhangra costume is simple and is normally worn by the men in rural Punjab, in lighter hues though ! Before we study how the Bhangra costume looks like let us see what exactly constitutes the traditional Bhangra dress for men.
Parts of Bhangra Dress
|
Quite often the kurta of bhangra dancer is in white color but the use of other bright colours can also be normally observed in modern times. Lungi, vest and pag are of the same colour. Bright shades like yellow (to symbolize sarson, mustard), green (meaning prosperity), red (auspicious saffron) are mostly chosen for these. Lower part of a bhangra dress is a lungi. This is a rectangular piece of cloth tied around the waist. Men also wear juttis (Punjabi shoes), but dance barefoot. Traditional Gidda Dress (for Women) Traditional dress for gidda is quite elegant. It adds charm to feminine grace and is comfortable enough to allow women to perform giddha dance with ease. Giddha dress is quite simple and one can find women in rural Punjab donning it everyday. The only difference is that costume for giddha makes use of brighter colors and is complemented with heavy jewellery. Parts of Gidda Dress Women performing giddha dance also adorn themselves with a lot of jewellery including bangles, tikka, jhumkas, necklace and nath (nose ring). Characteristicfeature of gidda dress is a paranda – a tassle that is woven into the braid. Womenfolk love to go in for longer and fancier parandas. |
ETHNIC WEAR OF SIKKIM:
Sikkim, located below Mount Khangchendzonga in the Himalayan ranges is a north-eastern state of India. The people consist of three main ethnic groups – the Lepchas, the Nepalese and the Bhutias. The Lepchas are said to be the original inhabitants of Sikkim. The Nepalese started to settle down in Sikkim from the 19th century and now they are more than 60% in population. Nepali, i.e. the Nepalese people , another predominant group of Sikkim, has sustained the ethnicity of their own culture in their costume. However, in the cities and urbanised sectors of the state, Marwaris, Biharis, Bengalis, South Indians and Punjabis, have settled to conduct business and serve in government services. Costumes of Sikkim, reflects in the resplendence of the dress and ornaments of the people, their love for beauty and inventive finesse.
COSTUMES OF WOMEN
LEPCHA WOMENS
The hereditary costume of Lepcha women is Dumvum or Dumdyam, a kind of smooth and cosy ankle-long dress, draped like a saree, Tago a loose-fitting comfortable blouse, and the head is covered by a scarf called gorey. The magnificent ornaments exhibited by the Lepcha women, entail, earrings, called Namchok, Lyak a necklace, Gyar, a bracelet, and so on.
BHUTIA WOMENS
A Bhutia woman`s general costume consists of Kho or Bakhu, Hanju, a silky full-sleeve loose blouse, Kushen, a jacket, a different pattern of the cap, Shambo and Shabchu, the shoe. Pangden, the stripy apron, the signifier of marital status is a symbol of married Bhutia females. The ornaments enhancing the appearance of the Bhutia women are Yencho, the earring, Khao, the necklace, Phiru, the pearl ornament, Diu, the Gold bangle, and Joko, the ring. Bhutia people are obsessed with the pure form of gold, i.e., 24 carats, and have most of their ornaments crafted from pure gold.
NEPALESE WOMEN
The traditional costume of the Nepali women of Sikkim is endowed with fabulous hues. Pharia, the saree, gorgeous in vibrant shades, definitely augments the grace of the Nepali women. The dressing gets the right finish with a long loose blouse, is fastened from four sides and hence is called Chaubandi Cholo. Another variety in blouse is the Tharo Cholo. The upper portion of the body is daintily enveloped with a piece of cloth with wonderful prints. It is called Hembari.
The dance costume of the Nepali women is amazing. Pachauri, a colourful piece of cloth, suspended from the head to the waist, is utilised as adornment during dance performances. The ornaments that give a gaudy appearance to the Nepalese women are Sir-Bandi or tiara, i.e., a jeweled head-ornament, Kantha, a necklace, Naugeri, a pearl-necklace, Charanihari, again a necklace, Tilhari, a green bead with an elongated gold pendant, attired mainly by married women, Bulaki, a nose-ring, Dungri, a nose-pin, Tik-mala, Chandrahar, Chepti son, an ear ring, Gadwari, an earring, a silver Chura, a bracelet, and Kalli, a thick, substantial, silver anklet.
COSTUMES OF MEN
LEPCHA MEN
The traditional costume of the Lepcha male is Thokro-Dum ( (a cotton sheet of multicoloured stripes) which involves a white pajama, stretching only to the calves, a white shirt known as togo and a pair of loose cotton pyjamas known as gyodo. Chambu-thuri a woolen cap is sometimes used. The texture of the male dress is rough, and long-lasting, suitable for the hardy toil in the field and forest.
BHUTIAS MEN
The traditional costume of Bhutia males comprises Kho, also known as Bakhu. It is a loose mantle which is tied at the neck on one side, and at the waist region with a silk or cotton belt. Added to this basic garment, a Bhutia man dons Jya Jya, a waist coat, the shirt, called, Yenthatse, shirt, Kera, a cloth-belt and Shambo or thurishambu, the cap and a pair of leather shoes, shotsi complete the dress of a Bhutia men.
NAPLEASE MEN
The Nepalese men dress themselves in Shurval, a Churidar Pajama, topped off by a shirt, known as Daura. It is associated with Aaskot, wrist coat and their belt, called Patuki and a cap with slanting top known as dhaka-topi.
OTHER GROUP WOMEN
The other Marwari, Bihari, Bengali or Punjabi communities cater to their traditional costumes of salwar-kameez dupatta, saree, woolen textiles, and even to Western outfit, like jeans, T-shirts, trousers, anything which suits their taste and preferences.
ETHNIC WEAR OF TRIPURA:
Tripura, the frontier hilly state of the North-East, is the land of skilled weavers, gifted with proper know-how .The women of the local tribes, such as the Khakloo, the Halam, the Lushei and the Kuki-Chin tribe , excel in the art of weaving, as is attested in the diligent traditional costumes, which they diligently preserve.
There is a striking resemblance in the traditional costume of the Khakloo and the other fellow tribes. The plain dressing style is apt for the hilly climate, and for regular work. The infants are hardly given clothes except when it becomes essential in the winter and rainy season. The children put on a loincloth.
COSTUMES OF MEN
The daily work-costume of a full-grown male is a towel-like sheet of loin cloth, called Rikutu Gamcha , topped off by a self-woven shirt, called Kubai. To combat the blazing heat of the sun and to continue working in the open heat, the men resort to a pagri , i.e., a turban. Western influence is prominently visible on the young boys of today`s Manipur, because they prefer wearing shirts and pants.
COSTUMES OF WOMEN
The Khakloo, and at large the Tripuri women, envelop themselves in a greater size of cloth-piece , known as Rignai. This long as well as broad cloth is draped around the waist and reaches the knee. She dons herself in a shorter piece of cloth called Risa. This upper-attire passes under the arms, and conceals the entire chest-region of the body. Risas are often invested with beautiful embroideries.
Now-a-days, the younger generation of girls prioritize blouses over Risa, as being more management-friendly. However, still among few clans, the wearing of Risa during wedding is mandatory. Women folk also are found to use some kind of headdresses while at work outside.
The neck areas of women are adorned with plethora of beads and coin strands. The element of finery is dim in the costume of the women of the Lushei tribe. Every woman wear a dark blue cotton fabric , to serve as a skirt or petticoat. This cloth, wrapped around the waist, is held firmly by a corset of brass wire or string. The Rinai-like cloth, which falls down to the knees, is associated with an upper-attire; a short white jacket and a cloth to invest in their appearance the sobriety.
In the mirthful times of revelry, the female costume, gets an extra item, a dignified headgear, specifically during dance-performance. This headdress is a coronal, made of brass and coloured cane, further embellished with porcupine quills . Moreover, the upper edges of these quills are studded with the green feathers of the parrot`s wings, decorated at their tips , with tussocks of contrasting red wool.
The earlier costumes of the Kuki-Chin women had deigns, imitated from the patterns, seen on the hide of snakes . They bore several names, such as Thangang, Saipi-khup, Ponmongvom, and Khamtang. However, these clothes were previously the prerogative of the women of the aristocrat background, like those from the chief`s family and other noble-blood. Indeed, the simplicity yet attractiveness of the traditional costume of Tripura, is attributed to the artistic fervor and weaving-talent of the natives.
RIGNAI
Each of the clans of Tripuri has their own rignai pattern and design. The patterns of the rignai are so distinct that the clan of a Tripuri woman can be identified by the pattern of the rignai she wears. Nowadays there is inter-mingling of the 'rignai' and different clans are wearing 'rignai' of other clans freely and new designs are being woven differently. 'Rikutu' is a plain cloth of different colour and shade woven by the Tripuri ladies.
REGNAI DESIGNS
Different types of designs fashion that are woven in the rignai borok by the Tripuri women are as follows:
Anji Banarosi Chamthwibar Jirabi Khamjang Khumbar Kuaiphang Kuaichu Kuaichu bokobom Kuaichu ulta
Malibar Miyong Muikhunchok Monaisora Muisili Natupalia Phantokbar Sada Salu Similik yapai
Takhumtei Temanlia Thaimaikrang Thaiphlokbar Tokbakbar Tokha Toksa Toiling Toprengsakhitung Rignaichamwthwi Rignai mereng Metereng trang Rignai khamchwi Kwsakwpra Rignaibru Rignaikosong Kwsapra Songkai Sorbangi Rignai mereng Metereng trang Rignai khamchwi Kwsakwpra Rignaibru Rignaikosong Kwsapra Songkai SorbangiAnd many more….
It is said that at the time of Subrai Raja, the most famous and legendary King of Tripura, through his 250 wives he had invented two hundred fifty designs of rignai. He married those women whoever invented a new design. But all these design had lost in time and only few are retained till date. The effort to re-discover the lost designs is in process.
ETHNIC WEAR OF UTTARAKHAND:
Costumes of Uttarakhand reflect the culture and lifestyle of the ethnic communities, the Garhwalis and the Kumaoni. The graceful Uttarakhand is adjacent to the neighbouring states of Uttar Pradesh and Himachal Pradesh. Side by side, many Punjabis, Bengalis, and even Nepalis, from neighbouring Tibet, have settled in the state. The Garhwals residing in the Garhwal hills of Uttaranchal follow a costume-pattern suitable to the climatic conditions of the place they belong to. Wool fetched from goat or sheep is used to manufacture warm costumes, so as to ward off the biting cold in winter season.
COSTUMES OF WOMEN
Ghagri , a oriental long skirt , topped off by a Choli, an Indian blouse and an Orni, a cloth covering the head and the front portion, usually fastened to the waist , happen to be the traditional costume of the ethnic groups, namely, the Garhwalis and the Kumaonis.
The traditional bridal costume of the Kumaoni is Ghaghra-Pichora, akin to Ghaghra-Choli. Pichora is a Kumaoni veil or Rangwali, endowed with gold and silver tatting. But women also go for saris. The hallmarks of Kumaoni woman are sindoor smeared on the forehead, and an enormous gold ring, called Nath. Further, Chareu, a black beaded necklace is worn by the married woman, is a holy accessory for Garhwali married woman. A luxury ornament item is Hansuli, a kind of necklace, preferred in gold by the rich, and in silver, by the less affluent, or poor.
COSTUMES OF MEN
The traditional male costume of Uttaranchal is the loin-cloth Dhoti, or the Lungi, used as the lower-garment. The Uttaranchal man dons him in Kurtas, to serve as upper-attire . The men love to present themselves with headgear, or turban, a part of their traditional costume. Kurta-Pajamas is another good alternative for men of Uttarakhand.
Some of the ethnic groups, drape themselves in mantle-like clothing , called Sarong, girdled by a waistband and completed with a top-blouse. Muslin textiles, specially muslin veils or Rangwalis are assets of Uttaranchal costume designing. They come in auspicious hues of yellow, signifying warmth and cordiality and red, symbolic of the holy bond of marriage.
Both women and men wear sweaters or woolen jackets in winter, mainly sleeveless in form.Ethnicity and tradition has very well been maneuvered to be at par with convenience, when it comes to considering the costumes of Uttarakhand.
ETHNIC WEAR OF WEST BENGAL:
Costumes of West Bengal mirror the state’s multi-ethnic way of life. From the use of traditional fabrics, designs and motifs to the assimilation of western attires and styles within the Bengalis` cultural domain, the apparels of West Bengal display fine works of creativity and sophistication. For the men in West Bengal, the traditional garment is the "dhoti" and the "panjabi". The graceful icon of elegance that symbolises the quintessential Bengali woman is the saree. Indian sarees can be draped in various
MENS WEAR
The traditional costumes for the men of West Bengal are dhoti and panjabi. Dhotis are lengthy pieces of fabric spun in cotton or silk worn by the Hindus. Previously, dhotis were prevalent only in white though at present coloured dhotis are also in vogue. The dhoti is tied at the waist and wrapped around like a loin cloth passing in between the legs. It is suitably matched by a panjabi, worn atop, also made of silk or cotton.
The panjabis are loosly fitted garments, reaching close to the knees and are available in a wide variety of colours. The "lungi" is another variation of the dhotis worn by men in West Bengal. It is also wound around the waist and is often plaid. Over the years, the traditional dhoti and panjabi have lost much of their appeal and the `pyajamas` are in vogue. While western attire has overtaken the dhoti`s popularity as regular wear, the combination of dhoti and panjabi is an irreplaceable ingredient during traditional festivals and occasions like the Durga Puja and wedding ceremonies. In the rural areas, though, the dhoti is worn by the men as regular attire.
WOMENS WEAR
Traditional costume of the women of West Bengal is saree, though salwar kameez and western wears are also gaining in popularity. The women of West Bengal prefer to adorn themselves with a variety of colourful sarees, which they wear in a characteristically Bengali fashion. The saree is wrapped around the waist and the remaining portion is swathed over the shoulder. In the olden days, women had to cover their heads with the ends of their saree or "pallu" as a mark of respect for the family elders. However, such conventions have subsided slowly with the passage of time. They are worn with immense dignity and perfection particularly during Social occasions and festivals. Sarees are worn over petticoats or long skirts tied at the waist with cords which help in keeping the saree tightly fastened about the waist. The exquisite beauty of a saree is further enhanced when it is accessorised suitably with a blouse. At present, blouses are available in multitudes of fashionable patterns which when teamed with a saree does wonders to the attire. The salwar kameez dupatta is nowadays in the same way popular among the Bengali women as the sarees. "Salwars" are loosely fitted trousers worn with a "kameez" or long tunic. During wedding ceremonies however, the Bengali women usually resort to the traditional Banarasi sarees in shades of red coupled with a golden veil to cover their heads. Ornamented with glittering stones and detailed thread work, sarees are characteristic of the refined Bengali woman of today.
In West Bengal, sarees are primarily woven in cotton and silk. These sarees have been named chiefly after their weaving techniques. The traditional weavers or "tantis" of West Bengal are reputed worldwide because of the quality of fabric spun and their elaborate thread work. In the various districts of West Bengal like Murshidabad, Malda, Nadia, Birbhum, Bankura and Hooghly, different varieties of sarees are woven with supreme efficiency and dedication. Bengal silk is famous for its sophisticated quality and texture. Earlier, the cultivation of mulberry was common in almost every corner of Bengal. However, at present it is concentrated mostly in the districts of Birbhum, Murshidabad and Malda. The town of Baluchar located in Murshidabad is famed for the incredible threadwork on silk called "Baluchari". The Baluchari sarees are noted for their elaborate designing in the pallu and borders with prominent motifs of a specific kind known as "kalka". These motifs are woven with silver zari and often display tales from the Indian Puranas. The kalka motif can be observed in the "Garad" and "Korial" sarees as well, which are variants of the Baluchari and are woven in silk.
Jamdani sarees of West Bengal are extremely popular. They are available in a variety of colours and are favoured by the modern Bengali woman because of its light texture. In the district of Nadia, the rural community of Shantipur is well-known for the better quality of "Shantipuri Jamdani" sarees that display delicate thread work. The districts of West Bengal are also home to the very prevalent "Tangail" sarees. The Tangail sarees are characterised by their use of diverse colour patterns which produce a novel effect called "meenakari". Some of the most prevalent motifs used in these sarees are lamp and lotus imageries. Another variation of the Jamdani saree is the "Dhaniakhali Jamdani". It is available in brighter shades and is characterised by extended wide borders, often referred to as "maatha" or "beluaari paar". This variant of Jamdani is affordably priced and hence used commonly by the women in West Bengal. It is interesting to note that the Dhaniakhali Jamdani gained popularity due to their utilisation in dhotis for men.
Apart from these traditional handlooms, West Bengal is well-known for its delicate and fine thread work known as "kantha". The kantha embroidery is a supreme work of art and requires utmost concentration and meticulousness. Initially, it referred to the needlework done on coloured patchwork coverlets put together from redundant apparels. These quilts were to serve as covers during the winter. However, now the kantha stitch has been incorporated for use on designing clothing garments like sarees and has gained immense popularity. West Bengal is also home to plenty of tribes who display enormous variety with reference to their costumes. The men of the Magh tribe, for instance, cover their heads with a special form of headgear commonly referred to as "goungpoung" during the festive season. This is accompanied by the "prakha angyi" which is a fitted coat wrapped over the shirt. Body art or tattoos are quite popular among them as well as the Mahli tribesmen of West Bengal.
The costumes of West Bengal are suitably accessorised by delicately designed jewellery which is indigenous to its rich culture. Silver and gold along with alloys of zinc and precious stones are mostly used for jewellery production. While traditional designs are still in vogue, recent trends dictate a preference towards lighter accessories. In weddings, mostly, women adorn their foreheads with a thin string of small gold chain often strewn with pearls and precious stones. This is the "tikli". Gold chokers decorated with gems and diamonds are commonly worn by the women of West Bengal in social ceremonies. The women also embellish themselves with a variety of bangles and bracelets like the "mantasha" and also the "ratanchur". The tribal jewellery of West Bengal has also achieved immense popularity because of its exclusivity. A supreme example here would be the "dokra" artworks.
Over the years, different civilisations have left their mark upon the culture of West Bengal which finds its manifestation in the varied costumes and accessories of the people of the State. With the progress of the passage of time, a shift towards western trends has been noticed. Yet, such cross-cultural influences have by no means demeaned the worth of the traditional attires.
ReplyDeleteGreat post!!
ikkat sarees
ikat dresses
handloom dresses
cotton crop tops
handmade dresses
short tops for jeans